It was Bhavnis Birthday today. So with us getting up at 5.30, and with everyone wishing her a happy birthday, we left at 7am (30 mins later than we planned). We did not hit too much traffic though but it was a bit hard due to the early start. So our pit stop was north of Birmingham, where we had some breakfast. Half an hour later we were back on our way north, past Manchester, then Lancaster on the M6. Driving past Kendal and Windemere and onto Ableside, where we saw our first view of Lake Windermere near Waterhead. It was around 12:15 when we parked out car and checked into our B&B for the next two nights (Hillsdale). Offloading the car and meeting the hosts (George and Lindsey) we put out bags into the 3rd floor room, and after a quick freshening up we were out within the half hour, parking our car just down the road near the church.
Rugged Terrain
It was a quick 2 minute walk to the town centre, where we had a look at the tourist information (post office), to see if there was any information that would be useful to us. There were a few guides for sale, as well as OS maps, but not really any lists of walks. So instead we had lunch at a local cafe, a baked potato and soup of the day, with tea and coffee.
Distant Hills near Blea Tarn
We then walked to Waterhead which was around 10 minutes away. We got to the park at the end and chilled for a little while on a bench looking over the lake. We got some ice cream and then made our way back towards town.
A view in Ambleside
Getting to the car, we went for a drive. Initially we were aiming for the wast water region near Wasdale (which is really close to Scafell pike). Well we drove past the turning we should have taken, but we ended up near Blea tarn which looked pretty. So we parked at the car park and went for a walk around the lake. It was very gentle so even without our walking shoes it was ok. We saw some people coming back from a longer walks from much more tougher paths. At the end we had to go back on the road back to the car park. We carried on driving the loop back and then parked back at Ambleside. We had 3 hours until dinner so we went to the room and rested for a bit before freshening up and going out at 8pm.
We had a little walk around town looking at the old buildings before having a drink. We got to Doi Intanon (thai restraunt) for 8.45, where we had some nice tempura, corn cakes and a really hot green curry.
It was then back to the B&B after for the night.
11th July
Ambleside Church
Getting up we were ready and heading downstairs for breakfast at 8.45. Sitting at our assigned table we had cereal, followed by a veg full English for me and toast and beans for Bhavni. After breakfast George gave us some advice about walks and suggested to walk to Grasmere direct from Ambleside – there were two routes; the coffin route and the terrace route. We decided to take the terrace route.
Reflections at the cave
The walk started at the post office, through the town, but soon enough we were in a park and then heading down a quiet country lane, following a river. After some stepping stones and a photo opportunity there, we joined another path that took us slowly up overlooking the river “lakes”. This was the terrace and had some nice views. We came here to a famous cave which we had a look in (Bhavni managed a good photo waiting when there were no people in her shot). Slowly the route then descended to the lake and we eventually found our self in Grasmere. After a bit of window browsing, we went to eat. There was a nice looking place, but the outdoor area was full so we tried another place, sat down, but realised there was little in vegetarian food, so we went back to the first place. After all that we had a place outside.
Lake Grasmere from the terrace
As the sky had gone really cloudy and George had said the forecast was for afternoon rain, we took the bus back to Ambleside (after getting the ginger biscuits that were recommended) – Rip off at £4 per person for 10 minutes – oh well. Back in Ableside we visited the smallest house – where we had a really nice chat with the National trust lady there, about history and the general surrounds. After we walked to the nearby falls – 15 minutes walk or so, where we chilled for a bit on a small rock overhanging before going back to town.
Getting Closer to Grasmere
Back in town Bhavni bought a local road map, then we got into the car and drove to Wray castle (it was around 4pm). The outside is really cool, but the inside is really strange (old naval training place), so much so that Bhavni wanted to get out. After leaving we drove down the road near the lake as according to the map Bhavni bought – It did not tell us the road turned into a bridleway!
Cool outside of Wray Castle
Going back round we drove to the car ferry terminal and joined the queue. It was £4 for a car, but we just missed getting on the ferry – so we turned round and drove back as there was no real time advantage of the ferry – just the experience. When we got back to Ambleside, we had a little time to get ready before we had to go to dinner. So it was at 8pm that we crossed the road and went into the vegetarian restaurant, Fallinis where we were given a corner table, next to a loud “couple” – luckily they left soon afterwards. We had roast onion salad which was nice. Then haloumi Kababs (not great) and hazelnut loaf which was better. For desert the fondant chocolate cake was very nice.
Back at the B&B we attempted to watch some comedy but were soon asleep.
12th July
A bridge over the river
Waking up we finished our packing before heading down for breakfast. We had similar to yesterday, except that Bhavni had hash browns and beans.
Soon we had checked out and loaded our car. Filling up fuel, we then headed to “the struggle”, a proper hill road that connected to the A592. As we got nearer the top we were soon enough in fog. We left the fog as the A592 descended down the Kirkstone pass. The scenery was really nice and brooding with the steel skies as we headed to the Ullswater, and round to Aria Force.
At the summit
We parked at the National Trust car park there (free for us) and started the walk up to the waterfalls. We took our time, with plenty of others walking it took time to get the ideal photos. As we were nearer the second stone bridge the light drizzle became a bit more prolonged – thank goodness for waterproofs. As we climbed higher, the rain stopped and slowly blue breaks were visable. At the top of the falls (past the high force fall), we just continued up along the river up towards the gate and through the farm lands. Climbing up the pike we were treated to brilliant views of the Ullswater, until we reached over the false peak and up to the peak. It was windy here, but the views were great – we could see north and views including keswick and the northern fells. The sun was really out now and it was lovely as we began our gradual decent, around the hill and in front of the Ullswater.
The Ullswater
Getting to the car park we got our tea and scones from the trust tea room – well deserved, before driving on. We took the less traveled route between the Great mell fell and the little mell fell and joined the A66 towards keswick past the northern fells. We turned on towards the Derwant water and drove to a place called the “Surprise”, which has a small hump bridge on the road and nice views of the hills and the Derwant. After a apple break we headed back past Keswick and then down past Grasmere and Ambleside. We headed towards Kendle and as we were hungry we stopped at the Hawkshead brewery for some chips and soup (with an ale for me). Though in retrospect we should have head the ale ice cream instead as it looked good. Bhavni drove the rest of the way home to London.
I had the feeling that Bhavni was getting the itch to go to visit Meera in Dubai as she had the week off. To that end I was looking at flights out for Sunday first thing in the morning. Around 11am Bhavni phoned up saying she wanted to go (did I also) but she was going to speak to others as she was meant to be going to an event or two in the week. Before 1pm she phoned saying she had cleared her schedule and that she was going to look for flights. Within the hour I saw an email for the e-ticket – for tonight ! I would just have to leave a little earlier to drop her.
Going downstairs I let everyone know – then the next thing was that I was being told off by everyone why I was not going (Meena, Shelina, Arun and Parents). So I phoned up Bhavni gingerly asking to book another ticket. Surprised she managed to book one as the travel agent was open a bit later for some reason. Soon I had another e-ticket and I online checked in, leaving the shop by 4pm (With Aruns lounge access card). I got back home before Bhavni and started the packing. She came a little later and we were just ready for the pickup at 5.30. We got to T3 and checked in. Birjus requested 18year Japanese whiskey was not available, so we went and sat in the Airport lounge, until out 9pm flight.
Sunday
Dubai Mall Aquarium
After the long flight, we landed in the morning, in Dubai. Disembarking we followed the crowed and got through immigration, then picked up our one bag. We got a taxi and gave the directions that Meera had provided (Umm Suqeim 3) near Jumerai Beach. There was a bit of traffic around so it took a bit of time to get there with us directing as best as we could. It was sunny with quite blue skies, but we could not really see much of the famous skyline as the whole place was hazy due to massive sandstorms that had happened. It was so hazy that we got our first view of the Burj Khalifa when we were only a couple of miles away. All the other tall building seemed to loom out of the murk all the way to Meeras house. Arriving at what we assumed to be her house we paid the taxi and walked up the drive; it was her house – she heard us and opened the door.
The Burj
We had a bit of breakfast catching up, then went for a shower and a bit of sleep whilst Meera finished her errands. After a couple of hours of rest we all caught a taxi and headed to Meena Bazzar. Meera asked the taxi driver to drop us to a certain area, but he dropped us to a different place, so it took a bit to orient our selves. We went to a pure veg Indian fast food restaurant and had a couple of dishes – quite cheap and not bad. From here we then went to a jewellers – 3 hours later….. Bhavni had bought a wedding present for Bijal. The only plus point is I had a massala Chai.
In the Center
By now it was dark outside so we went to Dubai Mall where we would meet Birju for dinner. We had a bit of an explore looking at some of the shops and the indoor aquarium. We then went outside to see the dancing water show in front of the Burj. Well if you have seen the ones in Vegas, there is not much difference. After some dodgy photo shooting, we went to Waffi Express, where we met Birju. We enjoyed the Lebanese food. After we all walked into the other shopping Bazzar having an ice cream before going home, where we chilled for a bit before retiring got the night.
Monday
Atlantis The Palm
I was up quite early, but no-one was up in the morning so I went back to bed for a bit – which meant that inevitably I missed saying morning to Birju. Bhavni and I had a nice breakfast with Meera – I got to poach eggs. We then all bundled in Meeras car and drove towards the Palm.
View with sandy air
It was actually an easy drive to get onto the palm. We wanted to go right to the end near Atlantis, as the monorail terminus that we were going to ride was near there. The roads are really badly marked so we ended going the wrong way and in a bid to get back we ended up on the spine driving back again and looking for a turning. A weird round about later we managed to get there and park on the road outside the hotel (Valet parking was £50). We boarded the monorail and went up and down the palm. You get a better view of the palm and the sheer scale of it but its still a little hard to appreciate it still. Lots and lots of accommodation.
On the Palm
After the monorail, we wondered into the Altantis hotel, looking at the different areas and aquarium before having afternoon tea there. We ordered 2 afternoon teas (which came with 4 different teas) and a club sandwich. We were pleasantly surprised by the food and enjoyed the different teas.
Afternoon Tea
After we had our fill we drove back, stopping at a supermarket for buying a cake. We then just relaxed at the house for a while. We then went to Biju’s aunts house for dinner, where we had a pau baji and chips. Birju met us there. They had a good view of the Burj from the house. After dinner we went back to Meeras house and went to bed soon after.
Tuesday
The Grand Mosque
I actually got up at the right time to meet Birju on the table before he had to go to work. After Bhavni was up, we had a lazy breakfast before Meera drove us to the Hall of the Emirates. We parked on a side that Meera had never parked at before, so it took a bit to get her bearings, but soon enough we were at the Thrifty car hire counter. Now instead of the cheapest car, we ended up hiring a VW Passat. So saying bye to Meera I drove out slowly – obviously the first problem was that there was no exit ticket – so a few minutes of annoying the cars behind us.
Inside of the Mosque
So even after discussing what we were doing, we were soon going the wrong way on the moterway, so we had to turn around. We got off and went round the block, but this would only allow us back in the wrong direction. So another try around the block, but we tried to follow the signs for a petrol station; we ended up stuck in a MOT test center – a few Ferrari’s and other nice cars were there, but it took us a while to get out. Bhavni is not that relaxed in these situations. So after going round 4 blocks, we were finally able to get on the moterway the correct way. Petrol was getting a bit low for our liking, so we kept a lookout for a fuel station, but only found one as we were leaving Dubai – Cheap. It was then a nice hour drive to Abu Dhabi.
Mosque Courtyard
At the end we still took a few wrong turn before finding our selves at the famous Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. We parked and then approached. Bhavni was not wearing her shawl so we got directed to the fitting rooms for Bhavni to put on a black costume. We then were able to go in. The structure outside is really nice and white, with the blue pools around. As we went inside (taking our shoes off), we found out the inside is almost an immense hall, carpeted with chandeliers hanging. We followed the tour route looking at the opulent surroundings before leaving and returning Bhavnis costume.
Summer Palace Construction
We then drove right into town to the Etihad Towers, where we valeted the car around 3pm. Going to reception we called Sonali and were soon met by her, where we got shown around the hotel and the observation level on some high floor. We could see the vast complex that will be the Sheiks new extra home.
Kalpesh, Sonali and Us
Getting back to the room, we had coffee and soon after Kalpesh arrived. They had planned on taking us for a bit of food, so we soon were walking to a nearby Hilton hotel to the Waffi Express there for a bit of a full late lunch. We then had a walk down the Corniche (relaxed as Bhavni and Sonali took a leisurely pace). Soon it was dark, but we got to the end point of the walk (with a few shops and ice cream parlours), which normally is quite crowded, but was empty today.
Palace Hotel
Walking back all of us were a bit dehydrated, but our next stop was the Palace hotel, were we took the obligatory phtotos and then went to Hakkasan for dinner (even more food but nice). By the time we had finished it was nearly 11pm, so we quickly went to their hotel to get our stuff before starting the drive back to Dubai.
The drive back was easy and we manged to get all the way back to Meeras house without getting lost. Birju luckily was awake and opened the door for us.
Wednesday
At the Emirates Mall Ski Slope
Today we took our time getting up, having a late start. We had breakfast with Meera, before leaving her (as she had cleaners coming) to drive to the Mall of the Emirates as we had to return the rental car. Getting there was not that hard and we were soon parked and approaching the Thrifty shop. “Sorry Mr Shah, we tried to get in contact with you” – it turned out that they should have not rented us the car as it was not clean enough. But by the time they realised we must have been stuck in the Dubai motorway madness. Anyway I left Bhavni to sort out the paperwork whist I showed the car to the person. By the time I got back (nothing wrong with the car), Bhavni had finished. 20 Dhirums discount for the dirty car.
On the train
So we went shopping in the Mall of the Emitrates, first to Patchi, to get some chocolates, then a wonder around all the way to see the indoor ski slope. We then took the Metro (helpful guard) to downtown and the Dubai Mall. Getting off, it was around a km walk in the raised walkways to get to the mall. We did a little wondering around the mall, taking pictures of the waterfall and the paper butterflies in the fashion area, before we had some food – wraps and Nandos chips. After a bit more wondering around we went out and caught a taxi – took us a while to find where the taxi rank was.
A stroll on the beach
Getting back to Meeras place, we found that some of her cleaners had not come, so we chilled for a bit until it was confirmed that the cleaner was not coming. We then went for a walk down to the beach and also to the Park that was there.
Dinner at Jamies Kitchen
Back at Meeras house we had a little wait until Birju came come, then we were off the Jamies Kitchen in the Jumeriah Beach Hotel. I really enjoyed my Expresso Martini with the food. Though was a bit annoyed that the waiter thought we were fresh indians who would not like Polenta Chips… Bhavni tried to pay for the dinner – and would have succeeded, but gave Birju his credit card back before the waiter had actually taken the cash.
Well we all just went back to the house and after a bit all hit the hay as we had an early start the next day.
Thursday
So we were up well before 6am as our taxi pickup was for 7am, though it came by 6.40am. The taxi driver dropped Bhavni and I first (instead of Meera and Birju to the other terminal), but we were all early so it was not much of a problem. After checking in, we went through security – Bhavni was not on the system. So we had to go and get our passports stamped especially in a different office – not hard just wierd.
We had plenty of time, so we just headed to the Airport Lounge and realaxed for the best part of 1.5 hours, before getting on the plane. It was much an uneventful trip to London – a few fims, a bit of dozing.
They let us of the plane at 2.15pm, so after going through the immigration and getting our bag as fast as we could, we then made a dash for the heathrow express, getting the 2.45 train. (The tiket guy asked if we wanted a reurn as it was valid for 30 days – I made him laugh by saying no way – too many holidays). Bhavni did some repacking on the way to padington, after which we took a taxi to Marble Arch. We walked into the Montcalm Hotel at 3.15pm.
We had a really nice afternoon tea, followed by a couple of hours in the spa – hardly anyone else was there. Refreshed we headed home at 7pm (ringing my parents as they were on their way to the airport by now). We got picked up by Rajvi who dropped us home.
Holiday planned (last minute!) we were al set to go. A nice early start meaning we were collected by the taxi at 6.20am. We got to Heathrow terminal 4 around 7.15 and checked our bags in – 30kg out of 60kg. Threafter we looked for some breakfast (as usual Bhavni is hungry) at one of the restaurants – Dining street. The food was only so so and apparently replacing a sweet pastry with just a slice of toast is not possible – ever! Getting on the plane, we settled down and I watched lots of movies on the first flight (Bhavni less so due to sleep). Getting to Abu Dhabi, time to change terminals, through security again after a long queue (or four). The plane was delayed a bit and the bus transport to the train meant that getting off the bus took ages. The flight was quite noisy as passengers were arguing about all sorts – including sitting near exits. With a young hostess carefully explaining to the people at the exits that they are responsible for everyone and in case of an emergency they must help and what kind of emergencies could occur (even if you were not scared of flying, you definitely would be now!) Finally, the guy who didnt want to sit by the exit, changes sits with the person next to us and so we have the pleasure of teh argumentatives company (he was a just a guy not wanting the responsibility and wanting to be next to his family – in the seat in front). Then comes the food, of course special meals are served first and often collected last meaning you are locked into your seat for most of the flight by a tray. additionally, the service being so slow meant that the lights out time was kept at a minimal, meaning no sleep for the wicked landing at 4am!
14th Wednesday
Massive White Stupa
The plane arrived in Colombo Airport around 4am. It was faster getting off and not too bad to get through security and get our bags. We got a free local sim card for Bhavni’s phone (which comes with 50Rs credit) and changed some cash into Rs for 195Rs/£. Leaving we met Sam who had Dhadni on his name card – our driver for the next 9 days. Sam brought the car and soon enough we were on our way. We were driving to Anuradhapura around 180km away. This early in the morning we could go fast as there was no traffic. Well both of us kept drifting asleep, so it passed even quicker.
Moonstone in the Bhodi Tree Temple
For breakfast, we stopped at a local eatery, which had a local buffet – Rice, Sambar, curry and string hoppers, with a sweet coffee for me. The food was cheap! We soon were back on our way.
Drifting in and out of sleep, we eventually arrived at Anuradhapura. The first thing there to see was a really large white Stupa. We walked up and around it (clockwise without shoes). Bhavni bought some flowers and offered it.
One of the twin pools
Our next stop was the Bhodi tree temple (with the tree thought to be from the cutting from the original Bhodi tree that Buddha became enlightened from). The complex was on a square platform reached by stairs on all 4 sides, with plenty of people praying inside. The actual tree was on a higher platform that was closed except to the keepers.
From here, we had a walk to a even larger white Stupa than the one we first saw (Ruwanwelisaya Stupa), which is massive standing 103m high. Again we walked around it, taking our time. By the end the sun had just started to make the jewel on the top glitter.
Massive 122m Stupa
Now we had to buy tickets to enter the older part of the city – $25 each. Our first stop was the twin pools. Due to the rain that had fallen the last month, the pools were completely full of water, whereas normally there would be steps down into the pools.
After we visited the old Stupa (Jethawanaramaya Dagoba), which was without the whitewash which covered the newer ones – this had at one time been the third largest structure in the world (122 m) and more recently covered with plants and almost reclaimed as a hill. After we visited another of the large Stupas and the museum where a nice lady explained alot of the finds. We also saw some more ruins before heading to lunch.
Statue at Mihintale
Sam took us to a tourist restaurant where Bhavni ordered a western breakfast that came with fruit and breads. It was quite nice as we had a view over the lake and could see Mihintale in the distance, with the stupa on the hill reflecting white in the sun.
Hotel Lobby
After we started our drive to Mihintale, where Sam got us to near the museum. Sam just thought we would want to see the museum, but I said we would like to have a look at the foot of the stairs. So the foot became the first flight which then became the next corner, until we climbed all the way. Entrance was 500Rs each and the stairs were really shallow. We had to take our shoes off for the top as well (I dont mind paying for someone looking after shoes, as long as they say and not expect). We climbed to the Buddha statue there (baking rocks on unprotected feet), before having a look around and then climbing back down.
Infinity Pool
We found Sam relaxing at the bottom, amused that we had climbed in the heat. We then had a look around the free museum, with one of the locals who could not speak English signing at all the rooms. Well he was a bit of a con man as when we gave him 100Rs (just for 10mins) he said 2000Rs. Yea right – not that gullible.
Path at night
After it was a drive to our hotel – Aliah resort and spa near Sigiria, which took about an hour. We arrived at 5, checked in and bid Sam a good night for the day. We freshened up and on my insisting went to the pool for a dip (with the fading light). We were there for only 20mins before going back to the room, changing and then heading to the restaurant where we just had some chips (I know really bad – but they were tasty). It was then off to bed.
15th Thursday
Palace Remains
We had a semi early start, going to breakfast around 7.30. The breakfast was a buffet, with lots of different items – meaning we had quite a few full plates. By the time we were finished and had collected our stuff it was 8.20. Our next destination was Polonnaruwa, about an hour away, and the second old capital of Sri Lanka.
Old Remains
Sam was unable to be a guide for us here as he did not have the permits, so we used one of the guides that were around the entrance area (as without a guide we would not understand lots). We bought the entrance tickets and the guide after showing us around the museum said that he charged $25, but we said that 2000Rs is the rate, so he eventually agreed.
The first stop was the ruins of the old palace – which used to be 7 floors. There were lots of other ruins and temples nearby and we spent a bit of time here, seeing all the different places and things.
We then went to another of the large Stupas (Rankoth Vihara) which was originally (until the British rediscovered it) covered in vegetation and looked like a hill – Bhavni and I walked around it.
Buddha Statues
Our next stop was the very famous 4 statues of Buddha carved out of the same rock.
There were 2 seated, one standing and one sleeping. After looking around Bhavni and I sat on an outcrop of rock for a while looking at the scene.
Elephant Ride
Next we saw another stupa – this whitewashed and not as large as the other one, before visiting a large ruined monastery. This had some intricate carving around the outside, but the inside contained a headless 30m statue of Buddha open to the elements. It was quite awe inspiring to be near the base with it looming above.
After a stop at the lotus flower bath/pool, we saw a temple with some remaining frescos, before our final visit, to the statue of the king (who looks like a priest).
Entrance to Sigiria
Leaving Polonnaruwa, we drove back most of the way to Sigiria stopping at a random hotel for lunch. A little dubious about the place which was pretty water logged, Bhavni ordered Pitu, which was really a good thing as it was quite nice.
Famous Frescos
After lunch Sam talked us into the Elephant ride – $30 each. Not really that great, as we mostly felt sorry for the elephant. Though she let me ride on her shoulders after the water logged wading bit. Basically a tourist trap, especially as the handlers complained about the tip.
Lion Entrance
So it was after 3.30pm that we found ourselves at Sigiria, paying the entrance fee. From the entrance its a slight walk through the gardens to the beginning of the climb. This climb goes past some fallen rocks and then has a detour to the famed frescos (which are up a few flights in metal circular stairs, then back down again). Next is the mirror wall then the Lions paws before the final climb to the top (where the royal ground was). We spent quite a while at the top, waiting until the sun set, before heading down. Bhavni even managed to see our hotel from the top.
The view from the top of Sigiria
By the time we got down it was nearly dark, so in the car journey to the hotel Sam avoided the road where elephants may be crossing. Back at the hotel I went for a quick swim in the dark, before we got ready and went for dinner. This was amusing as we had requested Spring Rolls for dinner (after they where aghast at our chips previously). 1 Spring roll came on the plate…. Well we also had rice and curry which was much better (and the mater dei let Bhavni get the curry from the buffet). We even finished it off with ice cream.
16th Friday
Dumbulla Temple
After another nice breakfast, we checked out and left by 9am. Our next destination was Dumbulla, not too far away. Sam dropped us of whilst he found parking, which took a while before rejoining us. The Golden Temple is quite a sight, as there is the really big (30m) golden sitting Buddha.
Inside a cave
After paying the entrance fee, we started the climb up (not as high as Sigiria), to reach the caves. There are 5 caves at the top. The first was a smaller cave with a large statue of the dying Bhuda. The next cave (kings cave) was the largest with many statues of Buddha and paintings on the ceiling. Water was collecting in a caged of area, which is sacred and is used for cooking the ceremonial food.
Dumbulla caves
We had to leave the cave as it was the 11am pooja, so we just chilled outside for around 20 minutes before we could see the last 3 caves. The next was the next largest, with lost of statues and paintings of Buddhas life. The last 2 were smaller containing statues and painting also.
We climbed down (looking at tamarind trees), then continued our journey south. The next stop Sam arranged was a wood working factory, where fist we were shown a demonstration of a local wood that by subjecting the sawdust in water to acid and metals became different coloured dyes. We had a look around and Bhavni bought a wooden alphabet toy.
Ruwandi at the Spice Garden
Or next stop was at a spice garden – Euphoria Spice. This was really good as Ruwandi, the owner was very passionate about her organic garden and herbal remadies, taking us around all the plants she had and telling us their use. We were given some spiced tea and even a coconut, as well as demos of how to get cinnamon. She even gave me a lead to Kalpesh’s request for organic coconut oil. We bought some vanilla pods from her.
Hindu Temple
After a stop for lunch, we had a look fat a Batic factory, where Bhavni had a try at some clothes, before getting to Matale, where there was a Tamil Hindu Temple. Huge does not describe the temple spire, with its many many gods. Apparently it was 200Rs to take pictures the spire, but no one was around and we only read the sign when leaving.
Lookout in Kandy
From here it was directly to Kandy (with the rush hour starting). This was Sams home turf, so he knew all the little short cuts (even saying hi to his ‘uncle’), to get us to the Bahirawakanada Temple. Giving the entrance fee to the little business monk, we spent some time looking at Kandy and the area around as well as climbing up near the statue.
On the way down, suddenly Thiwanka (Sams friend and our tour organisor) appeared and jumped in the car introducing himself. We then proceeded to our Hotel – Elegant hotel, which turned out to be quite a distance away. Lovely property though. Sam and Thukawara left us to go home, whilst we had a couple of theplas to start off with, then some rice and curry for dinner, watching the bats fly around in and out of the dining area.
17th Saturday
Morning at the Hotel
Not too early a start today saw us eating the served breakfast (mix of western and Sri Lankan) and waiting at 9am, though we did not get picked up until 9.15. As we were staying out from Kandy, it was not to difficult to go to see the 3 temples. The first, (200Rs each) was old and wooden, with lots of wooden carvings. The priest (90 years old) kept on explaining to Thiwanka the significance of the items, which he translated for us. Picture.
At the wooden temple
Heading out, our guides bought breakfast – hoppers with chilly pickle – at a road side restaurant and were surprised that we could cope with the chilly heat. But it was nice.
After we went to the second temple, again 200Rs each. This one was a brick and stone structure, dedicated to Buddha and other gods. We had to hurry a bit near the end as the puja was starting.
Tea factory
We decided to forgo the third temple (due to time) and head to the Botanic Gardens. On the way we stopped at a tea factory and got guided around the place. We met the guys at the top having a cup of tea, where we got ourselves a box of spiced tea.
Thiwanka came with us inside the Botanic garden as our guide. Bhavni nearly got local tickets until she had to reply in Sinhalese. We had a walk around all the different areas of this park (opened up by the British), seeing grasses, palms, cycads, bamboo and others. Bhavni had a lesson in colour names in Sinhalese in the orchid house.
In the Botanic Garden
For lunch we went to the 5th floor restaurant on top of a shopping mall. Rather than sitting right inside, I wanted to sit near the balcony – it was a little to hot, so we went one row in. The usual rice and curry, which hit the spot. We left and after looking at some old pictures took the stairs down.
Next stop was the gem museum (I dont think they got the hint we are not that interested). I will say the building was nice though, and after the obligatory tour we were in the showroom. However instead of getting out quickly, Bhavni reverted to being a girl and took a while looking at the different items, meaning it was 3.30 when we got out.
At a dance
The guys suggested we go to the 4.30 dance show in the nearby building as it is air conditioned and new, however that would only allow us to go to the war cemetery, as it was rush hour. Now Bhavni made it clear she was not interested in the war cemetery, so they quickly accommodated us and we went to the central market instead, with all the fruits and veg and other items.
In the Tooth Temple
After a drive around the lake, we went to a dance show. There were lots of different dances – peacock, spinning, plate balancing etc. The annoying bit for me is that there was a person with a big head, who insisted on taking lots of photos by leaning forward and stretching out his arms – obscuring my view. At the end we had to move to the outside for the fire dancing segment (which I liked more than Bhavni).
Leaving quickly, we still managed to get into a traffic jam, due to a bus coming up the hill and very little room. We went to the view point and took some photos before going to a jewellers, to change some money (which was at a better rate than the airport).
Tooth Temple Shrine
Now we went to the tooth temple. It was really busy as it was puja time. There were lots of different areas to see, including the main temple, the relic area (which had a massive queue if you wanted to look in the door) and the speaking place where the prime minister does his first speech.
After we bid bye to Thiwanka and went to a massage place. I did a bad job of negotiation, but Bhavni was better and we ended up getting an hour massage for 7000Rs total. It went on a little longer than expected (I enjoyed it more then Bhavni), so we decided to go for coffee at a place Sam worked at.
We headed back to the hotel and Sam stayed at the provided accommodation. I did a bit of star watching, though not for too long as I did not want to get bitten.
Nice Scenery
18th Sunday
We woke up early to watch the sun rise over the mountains, before getting ready. After the served breakfast we checked out and drove south again, with plenty of stops for pictures and the odd coconut.
Aberdeen Falls
Sam decided to take a shorter route which went through some pretty scenery. At one of the junctions, we spotted a sign to at Aberdeen waterfall, so we asked Sam to take us there. Well the few km indicated took quite a bit, especially through a very rough area near a village. Sam asked a couple of times to make sure we had not gone wrong.
An old Tea Plantation
We eventually got to the place, which was a path leading down the valley. Well we started going down (with Bhavni leading the charge), but it soon became apparent that this was not a little way. After a 100m+ climb down (on the dis-repaired path), we reached the falls. The falls were really nice and not many people must visit. After the required photo taking, we began the slog up in the heat. Arriving at the top we took a bit to recover before heading back.
Maskelia Town
We proceeded to Maskelia, the nearest town to Adams Peak, where Bhavni and I bought some supplies for the coming day. Sam arranged for Lunch at a local Hotel (not touristy at all), where the proprietor led us in past the local bar and prepared for us some rice and curries. With drinks (including a beer for me), the total came to 880Rs.
The Peak in the distance
After we headed to the village near the base of Adams peak, and checked into our hotel for the night that Tankawara had arranged – the Punsisi Inn. Checking in the lady near the desk said we were a bit high, thinking nothing much as the building was only 3 stories, we were led up, and onto the hill side. Our rooms were the second highest row – 50m up. If we had known we would have not brought all our bags inside as the poor guys carried them up. Simple basic rooms, but that was all we needed.
So we decided to bed down for the night after sorting out our stuff for the next day. Suddenly around 5.30, music started to reverberate around, from speakers in the village, with chants and hymns. This continued until around 9pm, so the plan to sleep early did not happen. It disturbed Bhavni so much, she managed to eat quite a few biscuits at 8pm. When the music finally stopped we managed to get some sleep.
The gate at the beginning
19th Monday
Eeek, it was soon 1am when the alarm went off, so we got up and got ready, struggling a little, but just out the door before 2am and down the stairs to the street, where we turned right and started our walk. Near the beginning (after the village), there was some monks asking for addresses and donations – we gave 1000Rs before departing.
A Stall on the way up
So the beginning was not too bad, with the a few steps now and again, followed by short flights of stairs. But all too soon, those flights became more frequent and longer, until it was mostly climbing.
The stairs were generally a little uneven, so that also did not help us. Though the couple of groups of guys passing us playing “Eye of the tiger” did amuse us.
The bell at the top
On the way up Bhavni talked a bit to some english/nz folks, who seemed to think we were foreigners and proceeded to describe Norfolk in relation to London. We just kept going for most of the time. I took longer breaks every 40-50 steps, whilst Bhavni climbed more slowly and took less breaks. We kept on saying at the next area we will grab some tea from one of the vendors on the roadside, but this never came, even with them telling us we were going to be early. Well after the last one told us we were 30 mins away from the top, the way got even more steeper, with handrails and zig zagging abit. We could see down now at the far of villages and the row of lights that marked our trail up.
The Sunrise
Roughly 3 hours after we had started our assent (5am) we came to the top. The police were quite friendly and told us keep our stuff secure as it gets quite crowded up here. Whilst we had a chance, we looked around the complex on the top – only 20m or so wide – going to see the “footprint”, which is a depression in a rock 7m above where the real footprint is meant to be buried. This is really holly so there were no photos allowed.
The Triangular Shadow
After we found a spot facing east-ish (which was near the entrance), where we waited with a tourist who was from Belgium, and we got talking about places to see and go in Sri Lanka, (though he was a real backpacker). We had some thepla an biscuits whilst waiting.
The Lake in the mist below
Slowly as more people arrived, the sky lightened and we could see misty mountains and mist covered valleys emerging. Spectacular. It was quite sudden the appearance of the sun – announced by a collective “ahh”. We took some more photos, then headed to the western end to look at the famous triangular shadow of the mountain we were on.
We stared on our way down soon after, well I was in pain, the tendon on my right knee was really hurting. So for most of the going down with the rails, I kept on holding on to them to reduce the weight on my knee. Luckily the pain reduced a lot as I worked it and did stretching exercises, so soon enough I could go down just a bit slower then normal.
Looking up at the peak
We lent a walking stick to a local for a while (he had gone up the day before and had stayed the night near the top). It was his third time climbing – the second he had to give up 300m from the top as it was really busy then.
We finally got to the hotel – 2 hours from the top at around 9am, where we found Sam near the reception – he said we should go use the room then have some breakfast, so that is what we did, though the climb to the rooms was a bit brutal.
Tea time
After showering and final packing, we went down to the dining area were we had breakfast – lots of toast and tea. We were then on the road by 10.15, on the way to our next stop – Nuwara Elia. It was quite a nice drive, with some picture opportunities on the way, especially with a few waterfalls and the tea plantations around.
Waterfall in tea country
Whilst taking some pictures of a waterfall we noticed a tea “castle”, which we had to visit. We went to the lookout before sitting down and having a nice brew each. After which Bhavni and I bought a bit of tea from their shop. Getting to Nuwara Elia, it was a little past lunch. Sam suggested a place we could have lunch – the Apline Hotel – but they seemed to be taking a while, so we gave up and went to our hotel – Unique cottages. We asked about lunch and they were not sure as it was a bit late. Sam got a little angry as they told him no, but us yes after they found out. So we let Sam rest and for us it was vegetable rice, tea and a divine mango juice.
The post office
After a little rest in our room – plush but a little small for the price, we went for a walk in the town. The buildings really have an old colonial style (deservedly little england). We bought a few supplies from one of the supermarkets. Hearing lots of noise, we saw the presidential convoy appear and disappear, going very fast through the town. We completed our walk around the block and rested at the hotel for a bit.
At the Hill Club
Soon enough it was time to get ready and go to the Hill Club for dinner (shirt, jacket and trousers). It had been a bit fun as we had had to email them as they did not take phone bookings. Well after Sam picked us up and we drove past a couple of times trying to find it (though Bhavni recognised it from her researching), we found our selves at the posh club. I had to wear a tie (got away with my light jacket) – though I only did a half Windsor! Starters were superb, but the main meal – specials – were not so good. Desert was also quite nice. We then had coffee in front of the fire place, but I was a little fidgety as I was a bit tired now, so we got the bill and paid by dollers – though we had to sign for it, We found Sam outside in his car talking to his friend, so we quickly made it to the hotel for some well deserved sleep.
20th Tuesday
Mists below the plains
We really don’t do chilled holidays as our alarm went off at 4am and we got ready and went down. We checked out having to pay for lunch yesterday and collected our take away breakfast.
We drove to Horton plains. I think we were still quite sleepy, as the most I remember is Sam pointing out milk farms for the first bit of the drive. As the dawn light started to appear, we were climbing and the views were becoming spectacular. We passed quite a few cars stopped to take pictures (we stopped a few times but briefly). Unfortunate we passed the best point to catch the sun rise and were on the plateau, when it rose. We did see a few larger buffalo animals though.
Animals in the grasslands
At the entrance we paid in Rs as the dollar exchange was appalling (the guy said he had to go to Nuwara Elia to change it). We then went through the bag check – we could not take the Millo in, so we have it to Sam to take to the car. Well I suppose finding that stopped them looking at some of our other packages, which they would not allow. (Its not the food – its plastic in case you are going to litter – which we would not do).
Dew and mists on the plains
The walk is a circular walk on the plains, and as we set off, we saw a monkey in the trees disappear out of view. There were not that many animals to be seen, as we followed the track, going over what seems old river beds and other trails. Soon, we came to our first stop – The Little Worlds End, where we stopped for some photos and staring over the cliff. From here, we continued on to the main Worlds End.
Worlds End
Getting to the worlds end, we were one of the first. The view was a little misty, but we could see quite far still. After a few photos, we climbed to the upper area and took some more photos before sitting down and looking out at the view. We ate a little of the food we took – minus an apple which rolled over the cliff. As it was getting busier, we left and continued on the trail which went inwards on the plateau.
We got to Bakers fall area, and we took a path down that others seem to have taken – quite a slippery steep path.
Bakers Fall the hard way
Getting to the bottom, we faced the bottom of the falls with the river running over smaller rapids. This was a good place to stop for us to have the rest of our packed breakfast. After the scramble up (easier than going down), we found there were stairs to the falls, however the view was not as good as the one we had got earlier. On the way back, we followed a small river, with some pool areas, until we got to the start. (Late starters were just starting the walk, with one even carying a prayer mat). We got to the car around 10.30am (and after saying hello to the friendly animal), we headed out on our way to Ella.
The highest station
The drive down was nice (descending nearly 1000m), going through forests and alpine areas, before getting back to tea plantations, with views of mountains all around. Getting to Ella, we went to see a hotel called 98 Acres, which is meant to be luxurious. It was with a superb view of the mountains and tea plantations.
Little Adams Peak From Ella
We then stopped for lunch at the Mount Heaven hotel. We sat on the terrace and ordered vegetarian rice and curry. They gave a bitter gourd curry, which we did not want, so Bhavni asked for some dhall, which the waiter initially mimed was all gone, but then went to see what could be done. We ended up with some fresh dhall which Bhavni enjoyed. After lunch we had a tour of some of the rooms – the first had a small pool in it, the large villa had a fish tank with lots of fish in it.
We then drove to Kataragama, where we checked into our next hotel – The Orchin Boutique Hotel. We wanted to visit the famous temple here, but we decided to do this in the evening puja time, so we had a couple of hours. I decided I wanted a swim – Bhavni read a bit and asked after dinner.
Narrow Road
We met Sam later and went into town. Well its interesting parking as the locals are trying to flag down you to park so they can charge for looking after your car. We parked in a “car park” and walked it into the complex. It was really busy and noisy with the puja. Sam explained some of what was going on, and after we walked to the Stupa further away. There were some poor temple elephants chained up on the way which was a bit depressing.
After we went back to the hotel where the waiter had set us up a nice candle lit table overlooking the pool, for our chips (which were delicious).
Stork and Peacock in the tree
21st Wednesday
Guess what, we were up again at 4.20am as our Jeep was waiting for us at 5.30am. It was a bit of a ride to Yalla national park, getting there near dawn. There were not many cars, but the gate only just opened when we arrived. Trying to pay, we found they did not accept dollers (which is really unusual), so most of out Rs got used.
Large Eagle
Driving in, we saw quite a few gazelles, monkeys and lots of peacocks, including a shot of a peacock and a stork silhouetted in a tree. There were lots of buffalo around also. Eventually we also saw a couple of elephants. Then news came that a leopard had been spotted. So became a tedious convergence of lots of jeeps all wying for the shot of the leopard. Eventually I actually asked to forget about it and carry on. We then went briefly to the coast for a few shots then back for a bit more spotting – no crocodiles though, Finally on the way out we saw a whole lot of wild boars.
Running Peacock
We made our way back to the hotel (trying to go to a bank on the way which was useless as we did not have the passports on us). We had time to freshen up before leaving at midday for our next stop Galle.
On the way we went to change some money. We went into a bank at one of the towns, but amusingly the person inside said not to buy from them, but instead go to the jewellers across the road as they would do a better rate. The jewellers indeed were a better rate 199Rs per pound (asking where we had been).
Tusked Elephant
Carrying on we had to make an emergency stop for some bananas. We had some Russian tourists there, who were trying to buy a coconut, but could not communicate – trying to give 200Rs. Saying it was too much produced a 1000Rs note. Anyway that got sorted then we were back on track. We stopped at a seaside restaurant, with a good view, but the trouble was the staff were not helpful and would not compromise about veg options. After we stopped for some coconuts before getting to Galle.
Moored Fishing Vessels
Near the city, we quickly stopped to take a couple of snaps (from a distance) of the strange fishing technique that is on all the brochures with the person perched on a wooden platform in the sea. We had to quickly drive on before a person asked for money (going rate is 2000Rs).
On top of Galle Walls
We got to our hotel – Tamarind Hill – Nice, and had a bit of time to freshen up before we had to meet Sam. He was a little late, meaning that we missed the sunset by 10 mins or so over the fort, but we still had some time to take photos in the light remaining. One of the locals would jump into the sea if you paid 500Rs, but not really for us. We had a talk around the fort with Bhavni having an ice cream, before finding the closest to a local restaurant in the fort. We had kottu! the local evening dish – stir fried roti and vegetables. We watched our food being made – noisy but fun. We even had banana roti for dessert.
Making Kottu
After dinner we went back to the hotel and relaxed. We stayed a bit in the lobby reading and I asked for a pen, which was amusing as the waiter accosted me on the way to the room saying that another waiter may not be able to work without the pen tomorrow.
22nd Thursday
Pool at the Hotel
We had told Sam that today we did wanted to take it easy and have a little more time at the hotel. To that end we still woke up at 7.30, but made our way to the pool and had a nice half hour swim in the forested surroundings.
Kandian Wedding Dress
Getting ready we went for breakfast at around 9am. The hotel was being used by 2 different wedding parties for photos, so we saw proper Kandian dress and clothing whilst eating.
Breakfast was a nice affair, though mostly western to Bhavni’s unfortune. We had another go at trying the curds with honey, but was not really our thing. After breakfast (and a few photos) we went to our room and got our items ready before checking out at 11 – I made a point of returning the pen.
The Jungle at Jungle Beach
Our first port of call was to visit the famous Jungle beach, which involved driving up the local “hill” then parking and walking down to the beach. Its a really small beach and completely full of tourists sunbathing. We thoought it was busy but Sam said that normally you can hardly move there.
Street in Galle Fort
After we drove into Galle and took some photos of the place in the light, with Bhavni and I walking around the block near the clock tower. Soon enough it was time to leave Galle.
The drive north was mostly chilled, with Sams first stop a moonstone mine. The person showing us around said it was a short walk to the mine, which it was, but in the heat without sun protection it was a bit hot. The mine looked like the mine shown in the video of the place in Kandy, and it was fascinating to see first hand (even though no one was there). Bhavni kept on getting given shards of moonstone, until she had a small collection. Back near the showroom, we were then shown the cinnamon plantation and the area they produce the sticks and oil from the leaves. After looking at the showroom full of stones, we decided to get a small bottle of cinnamon oil which the gentleman showed was strong by dipping a bit in Bhavnis water bottle (which permanently marked it we found out later).
Moonstone Mine
Back on the road, we thought we deserved an ice cream, so gave Sam the task, When you are looking for something its harder to find, so it took a while before I spotted a shop selling it.
What should we charge them?
It was getting past lunch and we had decided we wanted to eat a propper local lunch. The first place Sam took us to had basically run our of rice and curry so we found another and ordered 2 portions there. Interesting building – they were going for black interior and loud music. However the food was good and I even had a milo and Bhavni an ginger beer. The restaurant staff (probably never having had proper tourists stop) were putting their heads together (and we think discussing how much extra to charge us). When the bill came it was … 360Rs. Enough said. Outside we saw how the rotti’s were prepared to make Kuttu and a cow just walking on the road with articulated lorries going around.
Bye to Sam
From here we drove to MT Lavina (electing not to do the river cruise that Sam suggested) and checked into the Mt Lavina Boutique Lodge. The caretakers of the property made us some tea and we said bye to Sam over a nice cup.
We were the only guests staying so we got the top floor apartments, in this really nice and unusual hotel. Our bathroom for example was partially open to the outside on one side (but private) and we had a sitting area on our floor also open aired with lots of plants.
Mt Lavina Hotel
We had a brief walk to the Mt Lavina Hotel (and looking inside), before going back to the hotel, then back out for dinner. The caretakers organised a tuk tuk and we went to the local beach front to the Loon Tao restaurant. It was a nice meal on the beach with the sea sand and live music (though it took a while to get our bill). We called the tuk tuk and went back to the hotel. He wanted to charge 200Rs – yea right.
As we were not sleepy we watched “The Terminal” trough the mosquito net curtain.
23rd Friday
At the station
We did not get up until 8am. For breakfast it was fresh hoppers – nice. I had one egg hopper as well. Followed with some nice tea,
Leaving we got to the station, just missing the 9.45 train to town, so we waited for the 10am train (which was 10 mins late) in the really hot morning.
Fort Clock Tower
The train was really cheap – 20Rs total and took 25 mins to get into town. From the main station we walked out and went into the pettah. That was really busy with lots and lots of little shops, crowds and commotion. After a bit we then made our way to the Fort area, walking right past the presidential palace and seeing the clock tower.
The Town Hall
One of the locals (sure they are all part of some plot) started talking to us and then said that a gem outlet was having a big sale on – then actually called a cab to take us there – really. But it actually was in the direction we wanted to go and was at a rate of only 50Rs (when it should be 100Rs), so we went with the flow. Well we were in the outlet for a bit as they showed us some jewels. In the end we did buy a small moonstone, as it was cheaper then I had been told at the mine yesterday.
Statues in the temple
We walked to the Viharamahadevi Park near to where we were (after a brief stop at a cutlery and crockery shop). The park was not that interesting but we had a couple of lolly pops before getting to the Town Hall and taking some pictures there. With the heat it was time for a break – going to a cafe overlooking the area. I had an ice coffee and Bhavni had her usual ginger beer.
Bhavni wanted to go shopping so we found the Odel near by. What a disappointment for us – it pretty much was like a Debenhams, so we were soon out.
Statues on the river
Luckily out next place to visit was not too far away – the Gangaramaya Temple. 300Rs entry a person, it was full of lots and lots of artifacts, from the ivory at the front, to lots of small statues and bookcases full of pictures and stuff. The famous wall of Buddha statues was there also. When leaving we found out one of the monks had been to UK (Birmingham) for a while but did not like the cold. He said we could catch the 101 bus back to the pettah area.
Busy Pettah Streets
Getting to the main road to catch the bus we saw another place related to the temple (Seema Malaka), which was a little temple complex in the lake. We had the tickets so we could go there to see the statues surrounding the small complex and take some photos.
Back on the main road, we found that the buses came past really full, with people almost hanging out of the doors – school finish time, but we managed to get on one – an experience. The conductor somehow managed to keep squeezing though collecting money, whilst I tried to stay upright and safeguard my possessions at the same time.
Sun Setting on the Terrace
At the main station we got out and went through the Pettah again. This time we bought some presents, a shirt for me and a Saree for Bhavni’s mother. We then back around the fort for some more photos and then onto the Galle Face Green. This was quite a long walk in front of the sea, with lots of other people enjoying the front. Another few ice lollies for us on the way as we watched the sun get a little lower and the kites flying on the green.
Chilling On the Terrace
We arrived at the Galle Face hotel and went to the terrace restaurant there to watch the sun set over the ocean whilst having some drinks. We walked to the Cinnamon Grand Hotel where there was a Sri Lankan restaurant, but we found it was all booked up, so we walked to the recommended place – Raja Bojan. We stated recognizing the area and realized this was where the tuk tuk had dropped us near the jewelry place.
We had the buffet – lots of food but so so quality after the good food was had had previously. It was too late to get a train back, so we got a tuk tuk – the guy gave a good estimate of the cost to get back (he had a meter) and it was a long way – 10Km. We gave him including tip 450Rs.
Back in the hotel we tried to watch a film, but we gave up as we were both shattered.
24th Saturday
Half of our sitting area
Our last day here. We had a slightly lazier start and went down for breakfast – this time western. Today was going to be a lazy relaxed day, so after going up and sorting our bags out, we went out and just walked to the main road, to stop at some supermarkets to get some bits and pieces. We also found a Saree shop that had different designs and got one for my mother.
Crossing the train tracks
Getting back to the hotel, we chilled in the lounge during the hottest part of the day, watching a film and reading a little, before going out again at 3.30. We walked to the beach (crossing the rail way tracks) and had a walk along to the Mt Lavina hotel. It looked like it was getting cloudy so we thought we should get back in case it rains.
Lavinia Beach
Whilst waiting we saw how some of the dishes are cooked and Bhavni started making avid notes, right until our taxi turned up at 6. We took some photos with our hosts and then were on our way. We managed to get to the airport at 7.15 with using the highway, where we checked in.
Bhavni did some more searching for gifts, but there was not that much around and all in dollers. We were hungry so we got some rice and curry for $10. Apparently chicken is vegetarian, and the guy seemed supprised we wanted the rice changed with the chicken juice all over it.
Bye to our hosts
The flight to AUH was ok – certainly better than the one to Sri Lanka. We then boarded the A380 to London and were given 3 seats between us, allowing us to mostly sleep on the way.
At the airport father had left way too early and was waiting for us in Costa as we came out in the cold.
We had to wake up early today at 5.30, to be ready for our pick up at 6.30, with the taxi arriving early to boot. Soon we were on our way to Heathrow, arriving at terminal 2 just gone 7.20. A quick check in into German Wings (with forgetting to print the baggage tag) and we went through security. There was not too much shopping that we wanted to do, so we sat in one of the restaurants and had some food. I had some eggs Florentine whilst Bhavni had a pastry.
Architecture on Museum Island
Soon enough it was time to board and fly; it was quite a quick flight and soon enough we were landing in Tigel. After clearing customs, we had to work out way round this old style airport to go to the tourist office there, where we got the welcome pack, zone a,b&c with entrance to Museum Island also. We then went outside and had to wait around 10 minutes for the TXL bus, starting to feel the cold, which took us to Beussellstabe, after which we changed to the S-Bhan, catching the clockwise ring to Landsburger Allee, which was where our hotel – Hotel Andel – was located. We went out the long way as it took a 5 minute walk to get to the hotel.
Monkey
Checking in, we were given a room on the second floor. Freshening up we then were out. We caught the M5 tram, from just outside the hotel to Hakinsher Markt, the terminus. We were quite hungry so we ducked into a pizzeria there and had a large vegetarian pizza, with Bhavni having a non-alcaholic beer also.
Spot Sejul
It was a short walk to museum island where the cathedral is also. We settled for going to the Old national gallery – 3 floors of artwork. The first 2 floors were mostly artwork associated with Germany and Prussia, but the third was a special exhibit, paintings of Mauri Leaders from New Zealand. By the time we finished it was just after 5pm, so we walked towards Alexanderplatz, looking at some of the shops on the way (kitchen and alcohol and shoes). Near Alexanderplatz there was a Christmas market, which we went into, wondering around and eating some of those suger coated nuts and having some warm mulled wine.
Night near the Cathedral
It was getting close to 7pm when we finished, so we started looking for a restaurant (for some reason my phone was playing up), but we could not really see anything that was nice where we were walking. So in the end we got back on a tram going to Hakinsher Markt (as we knew there were eateries around there), but we got of at the next stop as from the tram we spotted some restaurants, literally around the corner from where we were.
Alaxanderplatz Xmas Market
We had dinner at Vapiano (Rishuls favourite), having a pizza, pasta and a tirimisu. When leaving we had a crazy druggie type person start to follow us laughing his head off, so we ducked into a bar, so that he would not come near us. The bar man told him where to go. I had a coffee, whilst Bhavni had a hot chocolate, which she sent back as she was not happy with the milk in it. After, it was the tram back to the hotel. We fell asleep quickly.
Thursday 4th December
Monument to the war victims
So I was up at 7am so that we could be downstairs for breakfast at 8am in the hotel restaurant, which was a continental buffet, simple, but filling enough. Getting our stuff from the room, we caught the tram to Hakinsher Markt pretty much straight away, and were there at 9.20. Well we were quite early so we went for a walk around. Unfortunately all the shops (apart from cafes) opened after 10am, so we had to brave the cold – Bhavni suffering the most. Completing the walk nearer 10, we bought our tickets for the walking tour, then get some coffee and hot chocolate as the tour started at 10.30.
Preserved Wall
There were 13 other people on the tour (English speaking), and the guide – Nickolai – was originally from Sofia in Bulgaria, but had lived in America most of his life. The tour started with the new Cathedral on Museum island then went down the royal boulevard. There was plenty to see (and dont forget the name Schinkel), with lots of history, including the memorial for the war victims (Neue Wache), followed by the square where the Nazi book burning of 20,000 books took place.
Checkpoint Charlie
Then it was towards the French quarter, with the twin churches, followed by the wall and Checkpoint Charlie before lunch. Lunch was at a cafe, Bhavni and I had hot chocolate. From there we saw the site of Hitlers bunker – now a car park, and some buildings from the 3rd Riche era. After it was towards the Memorial to the murdered Jews, a strange place near the American Embassy, finally finishing up at the Brandenburg Gate. We also were told the window at the Hotel Adlon where MJ hung the baby out from.
Jewish Memorial
After the tour we walked to the Reichstag, (the German government building). The entry is free but you have to book ahead so instead we had a look around the area, seeing the memorial to the Sinti and Roma people and then took the 100 bus to Hakinsher Markt, then walking to Alexander Platz where we went into C&A and bought Bhavni some shoes. With warm shoes we were able to proceed; we walked up a few streets to Momos – a vegetarian momo restaurant that Bhavni had found, but when we got there, even though the lights were on, the door was closed. Disappointed we started to head back towards a station so we could eat at one of the restaurants that we had walked pass before. It just to happened that I looked back and saw someone approach the door, and not re-appear. Bhavni being sceptical did not believe me, but when we got there, the owner was there, so we sat for some momos, having a try of all the different ones (fried and steamed) – nice.
Brandenburg Gate
After the meal, we walked to Museum island and went to the Noyse museum, which was the museum with old artifacts, starting with mummies from Egypt, to Greek and other cultures and bronze and stone age. The museum building its self was interesting as it was heavily damaged in the war, but has been restored sometimes to the way it was with the Prussian empire.
Museum
Leaving the museum at 7, we made our way to the twin churches in the French quarter (with Bhavni not believing I knew the way), as this was where our guide earlier had said that the better market was. Well it even had a cover charge. It was a lot busier than the other market we had been to, but we still had our nuts, roasted chestnuts and mulled drinks, with Bhavni buying dried apple crisps also. There was a large section indoors, so we were out of the cold for a bit also.
Xmas Market
By the time we finished it was getting late, so we caught the 200 bus from the main road, which took us to the other side of the Volkspark Friedrichshain, where we went to another find of Bhavnis – Taleh Thai, which turned out to be quite a nice restaurant, with good food. It was nearly 11 by the time we finished dinner; the owners suggested taking a bus on the main street and then catching the ring to the hotel. That was going to take a while, so we walked around the park (through would be quicker, but we did not fancy going in the dark), before catching a passing tram for one stop.
Friday 5th December
Entrance to Sachsenhausen
So as we were early the day before, we woke up a little more leisurely and were having breakfast at 8.15. Catching the tram to Hakinsher Markt, we met the tour people and got tickets for the tour to Oranianburg and the Sachsenhausen concentration camp. It was a bit annoying as they did not give us the extra discount that they should have because the guide yesterday did not sell us the tickets.
A Horrible Place
Getting some sandwiches for lunch, it was just after 10, when we left with our guide Maria, taking the train to the central station, where we met up with a couple of people from the western meeting point. There was a couple from NZ, who Bhavni got talking to. It was a 25 minute 40km ride out to Oranianburg, and as it was busy, we walked 20 minutes to the camp entrance. A perfect day for the tour – cold, very foggy and eerie.
Sony Center
Suffice it to say, the tour was not rosy, with the horrific things done here (although there was good things here and there), so much so that one of the couples with children completely disappeared, and Bhavni ended up waiting outside some of the areas. However, i think it was less horrific (as it had been sanitised over the years) then for example the killing fields.
We had lunch huddling around a radiator, at the kitchens complex before seeing the last couple of places.
A Hot Beverage
We walked back to the station and got on the train to Berlin. However, instead of getting off with the group at the second stop, we went to the next station which was Potsdamer Platz. This was the new modern area, with the Sony center and other new buildings. Well we decided to book an IMAX showing of Penguins of Madagascar, and had a walk around the markets nearby in the mean time. After the show, we had another wonder, before having dinner at a Indian restaurant there. The food for me was ok, but not Bhavni’s favourite.
We got to the hotel and after a bit of rest (my wife was tired), we went up to the Sky Bar, it was busy, but we found 2 places and had a drink, looking out over the city.
Saturday 6th December
Victory Column
So this was the last day here, we had an even more later breakfast at 8.30, after which we collected our bags and checked out leaving our bags there. It was a nice sunny (and cold) day. We took the tram towards Alaxanderplatz, then the 100 bus which went to the Berlin pride monument (Victory Column). We met one of the people from the tour who said going in was definitely worth it, so we bought the tickets and after a brief look at the exhibits at the bottom, climbed to the top, up the many steps, for a really good lookout of the city from the park. We could see lots of the places we had been to in eastern Berlin, but so far this was the furthest west (except the airport). We could see Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag, the twin churches and bits on the museum island. It was getting quite busy so we went to the bottom level looking at the mosaics there, before leaving and catching the next 100 bus.
View back east towards Mitte
The bus took us past the Berlin aquarium and zoo. We got out near the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, which is a reminder of the bombings in the war. We walked inside the main entrance, but did not want to go right in. We then saw the new beehive church, before having a walk around the obligatory Christmas market that was there.
Memorial Church
We walked around a couple of the shopping centers there (one called the Bikini center), before we took the 200 bus towards the Sony center, as Bhavni was in a mood to shop, and had spotted the Desigual shop the day before, but it was even more expensive than the uk. In the end Bhavni got a nice scarf and we had Falafal in the food court at the Leipziger Platz.
Shopping Mall
After we made our way to the twin churches to go to a chocolate shop – Fassbender & Rausch. The shop had lots of cool models in chocolate (though some were cheats with being mostly wafer biscuits coated in chocolate). However here were lots of really cool items. Bhavni got a couple of chocolate desert pots.
We headed back to the hotel from here, picked up our bags and left for the airport (5pm). Asking about the entrance to the station, the receptionists must have thought we were strange, as the stairs were so obvious to the left from outside the hotel.
Chocolate Model of Parliament Building
Funny enough the train came straight away and the connecting TXL bus was waiting when we came out the station. This meant that we were at the airport too early to check in, and had to wait 20 minutes till it opened. After checking in and going through security, there was not much to do. Bhavni found a stashed 10 euros, so she could buy some gifts, and I could have my hot tea.
The flight left early, so that we were at heathrow 30 minutes before schedule. Father picked us up.
With Shelina’s wedding over and our last morning in Radisson Blu Dubrovnik, we woke up nice and early as our car was being delivered at 10am. Calling Mitens and parentage’s apartment we said we would be going down for breakfast now at 8am. Miten was still getting up… There were a couple of the guests around so we said hello to a few and hello to my parents who were in their usual area for breakfast.
The Bay of Kator
We wanted to eat out in the sun, so we took a table just outside on the balcony. All was going well, I went to get some more food, but when I got back, Bhavni was being shown to another table, with a bemused look. After settling down I found out the reason we moved was that Bhavni had a furry friend visit her enjoying her milk and cereal, and when telling the waiter they said it lives just there. Miten and parentage appeared a little while later as we were finishing, so we sat for a bit longer before going up to get our bags and check out.
Walking in a town on the Bay
Well the car was not going to come at 10am, it was going to come anytime from 10-11am, and indeed it came just before 11am. After signing the documents and loading up, we were on our way in the white estate. We stopped at the lookout point to get some good views of Dubrovnik, before driving past the airport and towards the border. The border crossing was easy and did not take that long, even with me being amused at the singing security guard. Now in Montenegro we drove for a bit before making a pit stop for some drinks and coffee, which was surprisingly good. After all of us had a wonder in a supermarket there, to get some supplies for dinner and the next few days, before heading on.
Relaxing or not yet buying tablecloths
Soon enough we were at the optional ferry crossing, which we drove passed and instead started driving around the bay of Kotor – a big sheltered bay with lots of little villages around it and monasteries and other ruins on island dotted around. We stopped at a village on the way, parking just outside, which was 1euro. It was a nice village and Bhavni, Miten and I went for a little bit of a walk, letting the parentage walk casually at a slower pace. It was quite nice on the shore, with old buildings and restaurants. After getting to the main church, we made our way back, stopping for ice cream for most. We joined the parentage, looking at table cloths from street sellers, but luckily they did not have any big ones.
Kator old town
Back on the road, we only had a short scenic ride before arriving at Kotor, a world heritage site also. The parking was near, and we soon were entering one of the gates of the city. The city is a bit like Dubrovnik, but more older feeling, and we had a slow walk around a few of the streets, before stopping for some lunch at one of the numerous cafes. Chips, pasta and salad later we carried on our walk, up to the water gate.
Above Kator on the Walls
I was eyeing up the walk to the walled positions up the mountain and luckily Miten took the parentage, whilst Bhavni and I made the walk up. We asked at the entrance how long it would take – 25 minutes to the church – we were there in 10. What a great view as we were going up and at the church, being able to see a lot of the sheltered bay and the yachts on it. A pity we could not go higher as we did not have the time. We spotted Miten and Co near the entrance to the city and took a couple of pictures of them.
The beach at dusk
Getting back down, we went by another way, which was not quite as nice as the way we ascended as the path was more broken. We met at the entrance where the rest were having a drink at a cafe. After a bit we were then back off. We drove to Budva, and just past to the hotel where we were staying. We checked in and soon found our selves unloaded and on floor 9, where we relaxed for a bit, using the balcony and having snacks. Just before it got dark we headed down to the boardwalk for a stroll along the beach front. Soon enough we had started to break into groups, with the parentage first taking their time, then Miten slowly disappearing behind. Bhavni and I walked to the end of the beach front, found our selves a little grocery store and got some milk, before starting back. Eventually we met up with Miten, then found the parentage at the ramp up to the hotel. We managed to go in without inviting a stray dog in.
For dinner I made some pasta, which was ok as I went a bit past al dente. There was also some thepla and nasta. After a bit of tv it was then time to retire.
Tuesday 16th
Sweti Stefan
After a decent night, we awoke and had breakfast, with the usual waiting around with there only being one bathroom, and Miten not being a morning person. Nevertheless we managed to get out by 9.30am. We were soon at the lookout overlooking Sweti Stefan, an amazing looking town, in that its on a small island connected to the mainland by a small causeway. We took plenty of photos and Bhavnis mother got lots of photos from tourists who had not seen a sari before. From here we drove to Vranjina, which is a small town in the Skadarsko national park. We stopped at the main stop and had some coffee.
Skadarsko National Park
Bhavni and I went for a bit of a walk along the road bridge, to look at some of the ruins. On the way back we got talking to one of the boat owners and after a bit of negotiation we had booked ourselves for a boat ride to see some of the island monasteries. We were soon enough on the small speed boat with our friendly but not English speaking driver. On the way we saw an old Turkish prison – a ruined building on an island as well as lots of other ruined buildings and bird life.
Turkish Prison
Our destination was a monastery 20 minutes away. On arrival we all eventually disembarked (after a bit of discussion) and made our way up to the walls of the monastery. We knocked for a while but there was no answer, so we went back to the boat (stopping to look at the terrapins). Just as we were getting in the Monk appeared and started talking to our guide, before welcoming us in (we joked the terrapin that I held called for backup).
The Monk in the Monastery
The monk spoke good English and as he showed us around the place. He had help today, but normally he lives on his own and has been for the last 20 years. He used to be an electrical engineer from Serbia. We all sat down and he gave us some fresh home made pomegranate juice form the trees on the island, which was really nice and refreshing. We sat for a while on the benches taking in the view, before thanking him and going back to the boat. He gave us a parting gift of grapes.
Look who is steering
On the boat ride back we got the obligatory shots of everyone steering the boat- (except me :). From here we carried on on the E80 to Podgorcia, the capital. Driving right into town, we found parking (Miten having to tell the attendant there is a space), then had a wonder. As usual there was a bit too much shopping going on, but we did see some cool robot statues made from recycled bits and pieces as well as some older buildings.
We had food at one of the cafes, outside on a walking street – the usual affair – chips and salad.
Ostrg Above
Our next agenda was the Ostrog Monastery, which is a serbian monastery, set high up on a cliff face. From the capital we had to go north north west. Unfortunately the marked road was under repair and impassable. So we went another way. Initially it was really good going, as the road was hardly used, and we could drive at a good speed. But then we came to a small village, and asking the directions we found we had to go up a really small high gradient track road, which wound up the mountain. More amusing we had to pass a broken down van, which involved getting out and moving boulders and branches and slowly squeezing past trying not to go too near the edge. Really interesting driving for me.
Entrance to Ostrig
Eventually we got onto the more normal road and made our way up to the monastery. I lost count of how many switchbacks in the road there were. Eventually getting to the top we parked and went into the monastery. The base was a big plaza, which had some building and religious shrines on one side and a view on the other. But the actual monastery as at the end, completely carved from the rock face. Up 3 flight of stairs was the top, where there was another nice lookout at the cliff and the route up. We stayed a little while taking in the sight before heading back. Next we drove towards the lower monastery, which was a much more conventional place. There was a service going on, so we only briefly had a look around before leaving.
We were then on our way back. We had to drive back almost towards Podgarcia (an alternate route via cevo was a bit hilly and had too narrow roads for the fading light). We then drove onto Centine, the old capital. Parking we walked all the way down the main walking street, before giving up and having dinner at Obolisk Pizzeria, having – you guessed it – pizza and salad. We then had a quick driving tour of the town before heading back to Budva.
As we came back to the city we found our selves well above the city, with it shining down below – really nice. At the hotel, we settled in and called it a night after the obligatory tea.
Wednesday 17th
Budva Old Town
Our last day. We were a bit lazier getting out today, having a longer breakfast and getting out and checked out just before 10am. After a bit of debate about the time today, I (as it was me driving) decided to go into Budva historic town and have a look at the city. We found some parking and walked a bit near the waterfront into the walled city. We left the parentage sitting and relaxing, whilst we walked around, with us to meet in 20 mins. Miten and Bhavni were looking at shops whilst I walked around looking at the buildings. The town is similar to Kotor and nice to walk around.
Budva from above
At the 20 mins I went back to the meeting place, but no-one was there, and no-one was near the wall entrance either. I found Miten asking where the parentage are… This was followed by all three of us looking for them for the next 20 mins. Eventually Miten found them, in some shops. So a little late we headed off.
At the top of Lovcen National Park
Retracing our steps from yesterday we headed towards Centine, and then to Lovcen National park. This was also with lots of switchbacks as we went ascending. There were a few stops on the way, but we continued going higher, until we got to the end. I drove right up to the end of the road as the parentage would not enjoy the steep climb up. There was not much space up the top, but one of the people there let me park. After enjoying the views at the bottom, Bhavni, Miten and I ascended the steps – up 100m to the top. Talk about amazing views, even with the large amount of clouds. At the top (Vidikovac) is a shrine to one of the founders of Montenegro, but we did not know at the time, so did not go in. Instead we enjoyed the view. You could see the Bay of Kotor and the Skadarsko national park as we recognised the hills we saw from the boat trip yesterday. Apparently on a clear day you can see all of Montenegro and even the coast of Italy. Bhavni and Miten went down first, but I stayed a while longer enjoying the view. I finally came down, but instead of the stairs, I took the outside path. The rest spotted me coming down.
Near the clouds at the top
At the base was a restaurant and we went and sat in an outside area, having drinks. Luckilly we just avoided a large group which would have meant that the drinks would have taken ages. I enjoyed the cold, but everyone else slowly stated buttoning up their clothes.
Viewpoint on the way down
On the way back to the car Miten got talking to the owner of the souverneer shop, his name was Vladamir and he explained the history of the park and montenigro as well as giving Miten some free gifts. Saying bye I managed to turn the car around and start driving towards Kotor, slowly making our way down. There were some amazing view points, where we could clearly see the Bay of Kator and also Tivat and its air strip – though at one I had to go first as Miten was worried about the insects around, but he followed soon enough after seeing I was unharmed.
View of the Bay of Kator
Soon we joined the road before Kotor, and drove past, then around the Bay itself. Retracing our route in, we got to the border crossing. It was a bit busier here and the lanes were not clearly marked (cutting in time), but soon enough we were through and entering Croatia again. You can see that the state of the roads are just a bit better in Croatia than Montenegro, so we made good time, such that we were driving past the Airport at 5pm. So the general consensus was to go to Dubrovnik, which by the time we drove to the old town, found parking (and got a ticket from a person who had got too many and approached Miten) was around 6pm.
Sunset over Dubrovnik
We ate ate one of the restaurants near the harbour area – Chips and salad, before going to the airport, with the setting sun and Miten and Bhavni competing for pictures (and me getting told of for not stopping). We had a bit of fun returning the car as they took a while before inspecting it. Checking in, we were at the same time as Dilen and Hetal. We also had a few others around going back to the uk.
The flight back was ok, I even managed to sleep for a bit. At Gatwick, the bags took a while to come out, but the worst bit was that the taxi to pick us up did not show up, so we ended up getting one of the expensive cabs back and sending the parentage with Dilen and Hetal.