Author: sage

  • Sri Lanka 2015-01

    Sri Lanka 2015-01

    13th Tuesday January 2015

    Holiday planned (last minute!) we were al set to go. A nice early start meaning we were collected by the taxi at 6.20am. We got to Heathrow terminal 4 around 7.15 and checked our bags in – 30kg out of 60kg. Threafter we looked for some breakfast (as usual Bhavni is hungry) at one of the restaurants – Dining street. The food was only so so and apparently replacing a sweet pastry with just a slice of toast is not possible – ever!  Getting on the plane, we settled down and I watched lots of movies on the first flight (Bhavni less so due to sleep). Getting to Abu Dhabi, time to change terminals, through security again after a long queue (or four). The plane  was delayed a bit and the bus transport to the train meant that getting off the bus took ages. The flight was quite noisy as passengers were arguing about all sorts – including sitting near exits. With a young hostess carefully explaining to the people at the exits that they are responsible for everyone and in case of an emergency they must help and what kind of emergencies could occur (even if you were not scared of flying, you definitely would be now!) Finally, the guy who didnt want to sit by the exit, changes sits with the person next to us and so we have the pleasure of teh argumentatives company (he was a just a guy not wanting the responsibility and wanting to be next to his family – in the seat in front). Then comes the food, of course special meals are served first and often collected last meaning you are locked into your seat for most of the flight by a tray. additionally, the service being so slow meant that the lights out time was kept at a minimal, meaning no sleep for the wicked landing at 4am!

    14th Wednesday

    Massive White Stupa
    Massive White Stupa

    The plane arrived in Colombo Airport around 4am. It was faster getting off and not too bad to get through security and get our bags. We got a free local sim card for Bhavni’s phone (which comes with 50Rs credit) and changed some cash into Rs for 195Rs/£. Leaving we met Sam who had Dhadni on his name card – our driver for the next 9 days. Sam brought the car and soon enough we were on our way. We were driving to Anuradhapura around 180km away. This early in the morning we could go fast as there was no traffic. Well both of us kept drifting asleep, so it passed even quicker.

    Moonstone in the Bhodi Tree Temple
    Moonstone in the Bhodi Tree Temple

    For breakfast, we stopped at a local eatery, which had a local buffet – Rice, Sambar, curry and string hoppers, with a sweet coffee for me. The food was cheap! We soon were back on our way.

    Drifting in and out of sleep, we eventually arrived at Anuradhapura. The first thing there to see was a really large white Stupa. We walked up and around it (clockwise without shoes). Bhavni bought some flowers and offered it.

    One of the twin pools
    One of the twin pools

    Our next stop was the Bhodi tree temple (with the tree thought to be from the cutting from the original Bhodi tree that Buddha became enlightened from). The complex was on a square platform reached by stairs on all 4 sides, with plenty of people praying inside. The actual tree was on a higher platform that was closed except to the keepers.

    From here, we had a walk to a even larger white Stupa than the one we first saw (Ruwanwelisaya Stupa), which is massive standing 103m high. Again we walked around it, taking our time. By the end the sun had just started to make the jewel on the top glitter.

    Massive Stupa
    Massive 122m Stupa

    Now we had to buy tickets to enter the older part of the city – $25 each. Our first stop was the twin pools. Due to the rain that had fallen the last month, the pools were completely full of water, whereas normally there would be steps down into the pools.

    After we visited the old Stupa (Jethawanaramaya Dagoba), which was without the whitewash which covered the newer ones – this had at one time been the third largest structure in the world (122 m) and more recently covered with plants and almost reclaimed as a hill. After we visited another of the large Stupas and the museum where a nice lady explained alot of the finds. We also saw some more ruins before heading to lunch.

    Statue
    Statue at Mihintale

    Sam took us to a tourist restaurant where Bhavni ordered a western breakfast that came with fruit and breads. It was quite nice as we had a view over the lake and could see Mihintale in the distance, with the stupa on the hill reflecting white in the sun.

    Hotel Loby
    Hotel Lobby

    After we started our drive to Mihintale, where Sam got us to near the museum. Sam just thought we would want to see the museum, but I said we would like to have a look at the foot of the stairs. So the foot became the first flight which then became the next corner, until we climbed all the way. Entrance was 500Rs each and the stairs were really shallow. We had to take our shoes off for the top as well (I dont mind paying for someone looking after shoes, as long as they say and not expect). We climbed to the Buddha statue there (baking rocks on unprotected feet), before having a look around and then climbing back down.

    Infinity Pool
    Infinity Pool

    We found Sam relaxing at the bottom, amused that we had climbed in the heat. We then had a look around the free museum, with one of the locals who could not speak English signing at all the rooms. Well he was a bit of a con man as when we gave him 100Rs (just for 10mins) he said 2000Rs. Yea right – not that gullible.

    Path at night
    Path at night

    After it was a drive to our hotel – Aliah resort and spa near Sigiria, which took about an hour. We arrived at 5, checked in and bid Sam a good night for the day. We freshened up and on my insisting went to the pool for a dip (with the fading light). We were there for only 20mins before going back to the room, changing and then heading to the restaurant where we just had some chips (I know really bad – but they were tasty). It was then off to bed.

    15th Thursday

    Palace Remains
    Palace Remains

    We had a semi early start, going to breakfast around 7.30. The breakfast was a buffet, with lots of different items – meaning we had quite a few full plates. By the time we were finished and had collected our stuff it was 8.20. Our next destination was Polonnaruwa, about an hour away, and the second old capital of Sri Lanka.

    Old Remains
    Old Remains

    Sam was unable to be a guide for us here as he did not have the permits, so we used one of the guides that were around the entrance area (as without a guide we would not understand lots). We bought the entrance tickets and the guide after showing us around the museum said that he charged $25, but we said that 2000Rs is the rate, so he eventually agreed.

    The first stop was the ruins of the old palace – which used to be 7 floors. There were lots of other ruins and temples nearby and we spent a bit of time here, seeing all the different places and things.

    We then went to another of the large Stupas (Rankoth Vihara) which was originally (until the British rediscovered it) covered in vegetation and looked like a hill – Bhavni and I walked around it.

    Buddha Statues
    Buddha Statues

    Our next stop was the very famous 4 statues of Buddha carved out of the same rock.

    There were 2 seated, one standing and one sleeping. After looking around Bhavni and I sat on an outcrop of rock for a while looking at the scene.

    Elephant Ride
    Elephant Ride

    Next we saw another stupa – this whitewashed and not as large as the other one, before visiting a large ruined monastery. This had some intricate carving around the outside, but the inside contained a headless 30m statue of Buddha open to the elements. It was quite awe inspiring to be near the base with it looming above.

    After a stop at the lotus flower bath/pool, we saw a temple with some remaining frescos, before our final visit, to the statue of the king (who looks like a priest).

    Entrance to Sigiria
    Entrance to Sigiria

    Leaving Polonnaruwa, we drove back most of the way to Sigiria stopping at a random hotel for lunch. A little dubious about the place which was pretty water logged, Bhavni ordered Pitu, which was really a good thing as it was quite nice.

    Famous Frescos
    Famous Frescos

    After lunch Sam talked us into the Elephant ride – $30 each. Not really that great, as we mostly felt sorry for the elephant. Though she let me ride on her shoulders after the water logged wading bit. Basically a tourist trap, especially as the handlers complained about the tip.

    Lion Entrance
    Lion Entrance

    So it was after 3.30pm that we found ourselves at Sigiria, paying the entrance fee. From the entrance its a slight walk through the gardens to the beginning of the climb. This climb goes past some fallen rocks and then has a detour to the famed frescos (which are up a few flights in metal circular stairs, then back down again). Next is the mirror wall then the Lions paws before the final climb to the top (where the royal ground was). We spent quite a while at the top, waiting until the sun set, before heading down. Bhavni even managed to see our hotel from the top.

    The view from the top of Sigiria
    The view from the top of Sigiria

    By the time we got down it was nearly dark, so in the car journey to the hotel Sam avoided the road where elephants may be crossing. Back at the hotel I went for a quick swim in the dark, before we got ready and went for dinner. This was amusing as we had requested Spring Rolls for dinner (after they where aghast at our chips previously). 1 Spring roll came on the plate…. Well we also had rice and curry which was much better (and the mater dei let Bhavni get the curry from the buffet). We even finished it off with ice cream.

    16th Friday

    Dumbela Temple
    Dumbulla Temple

    After another nice breakfast, we checked out and left by 9am. Our next destination was Dumbulla, not too far away. Sam dropped us of whilst he found parking, which took a while before rejoining us. The Golden Temple is quite a sight, as there is the really big (30m) golden sitting Buddha.

    Inside a cave
    Inside a cave

    After paying the entrance fee, we started the climb up (not as high as Sigiria), to reach the caves. There are 5 caves at the top. The first was a smaller cave with a large statue of the dying Bhuda. The next cave (kings cave) was the largest with many statues of Buddha and paintings on the ceiling. Water was collecting in a caged of area, which is sacred and is used for cooking the ceremonial food.

    Dumbulla caves
    Dumbulla caves

    We had to leave the cave as it was the 11am pooja, so we just chilled outside for around 20 minutes before we could see the last 3 caves. The next was the next largest, with lost of statues and paintings of Buddhas life. The last 2 were smaller containing statues and painting also.

    We climbed down (looking at tamarind trees), then continued our journey south. The next stop Sam arranged was a wood working factory, where fist we were shown a demonstration of a local wood that by subjecting the sawdust in water to acid and metals became different coloured dyes. We had a look around and Bhavni bought a wooden alphabet toy.

    Spice Garden
    Ruwandi at the Spice Garden

    Or next stop was at a spice garden – Euphoria Spice. This was really good as Ruwandi, the owner was very passionate about her organic garden and herbal remadies, taking us around all the plants she had and telling us their use. We were given some spiced tea and even a coconut, as well as demos of how to get cinnamon. She even gave me a lead to Kalpesh’s request for organic coconut oil. We bought some vanilla pods from her.

    Hindu Temple
    Hindu Temple

    After a stop for lunch, we had a look fat a Batic factory, where Bhavni had a try at some clothes, before getting to Matale, where there was a Tamil Hindu Temple. Huge does not describe the temple spire, with its many many gods. Apparently it was 200Rs to take pictures the spire, but no one was around and we only read the sign when leaving.

    Lookout in Kandy
    Lookout in Kandy

    From here it was directly to Kandy (with the rush hour starting). This was Sams home turf, so he knew all the little short cuts (even saying hi to his ‘uncle’), to get us to the Bahirawakanada Temple. Giving the entrance fee to the little business monk, we spent some time looking at Kandy and the area around as well as climbing up near the statue.

    On the way down, suddenly Thiwanka (Sams friend and our tour organisor) appeared and jumped in the car introducing himself. We then proceeded to our Hotel – Elegant hotel, which turned out to be quite a distance away. Lovely property though. Sam and Thukawara left us to go home, whilst we had a couple of theplas to start off with, then some rice and curry for dinner, watching the bats fly around in and out of the dining area.

    17th Saturday

    Morning at the Hotel
    Morning at the Hotel

    Not too early a start today saw us eating the served breakfast (mix of western and Sri Lankan) and waiting at 9am, though we did not get picked up until 9.15. As we were staying out from Kandy, it was not to difficult to go to see the 3 temples. The first, (200Rs each) was old and wooden, with lots of wooden carvings. The priest (90 years old) kept on explaining to Thiwanka the significance of the items, which he translated for us. Picture.

    At the wooden temple
    At the wooden temple

    Heading out, our guides bought breakfast – hoppers with chilly pickle – at a road side restaurant and were surprised that we could cope with the chilly heat. But it was nice.

    After we went to the second temple, again 200Rs each. This one was a brick and stone structure, dedicated to Buddha and other gods. We had to hurry a bit near the end as the puja was starting.

    Tea factory
    Tea factory

    We decided to forgo the third temple (due to time) and head to the Botanic Gardens. On the way we stopped at a tea factory and got guided around the place. We met the guys at the top having a cup of tea, where we got ourselves a box of spiced tea.

    Thiwanka came with us inside the Botanic garden as our guide. Bhavni nearly got local tickets until she had to reply in Sinhalese. We had a walk around all the different areas of this park (opened up by the British), seeing grasses, palms, cycads, bamboo and others. Bhavni had a lesson in colour names in Sinhalese in the orchid house.

    In the Botanic Garden
    In the Botanic Garden

    For lunch we went to the 5th floor restaurant on top of a shopping mall. Rather than sitting right inside, I wanted to sit near the balcony – it was a little to hot, so we went one row in. The usual rice and curry, which hit the spot. We left and after looking at some old pictures took the stairs down.

    Next stop was the gem museum (I dont think they got the hint we are not that interested). I will say the building was nice though, and after the obligatory tour we were in the showroom. However instead of getting out quickly, Bhavni reverted to being a girl and took a while looking at the different items, meaning it was 3.30 when we got out.

    At a dance
    At a dance

    The guys suggested we go to the 4.30 dance show in the nearby building as it is air conditioned and new, however that would only allow us to go to the war cemetery, as it was rush hour. Now Bhavni made it clear she was not interested in the war cemetery, so they quickly accommodated us and we went to the central market instead, with all the fruits and veg and other items.

    In the Tooth Temple
    In the Tooth Temple

    After a drive around the lake, we went to a dance show. There were lots of different dances – peacock, spinning, plate balancing etc. The annoying bit for me is that there was a person with a big head, who insisted on taking lots of photos by leaning forward and stretching out his arms – obscuring my view. At the end we had to move to the outside for the fire dancing segment (which I liked more than Bhavni).

    Leaving quickly, we still managed to get into a traffic jam, due to a bus coming up the hill and very little room. We went to the view point and took some photos before going to a jewellers, to change some money (which was at a better rate than the airport).

    Tooth Temple
    Tooth Temple Shrine

    Now we went to the tooth temple. It was really busy as it was puja time. There were lots of different areas to see, including the main temple, the relic area (which had a massive queue if you wanted to look in the door) and the speaking place where the prime minister does his first speech.

    After we bid bye to Thiwanka and went to a massage place. I did a bad job of negotiation, but Bhavni was better and we ended up getting an hour massage for 7000Rs total. It went on a little longer than expected (I enjoyed it more then Bhavni), so we decided to go for coffee at a place Sam worked at.

    We headed back to the hotel and Sam stayed at the provided accommodation. I did a bit of star watching, though not for too long as I did not want to get bitten.

    Nice Scenery
    Nice Scenery

    18th Sunday

    We woke up early to watch the sun rise over the mountains, before getting ready. After the served breakfast we checked out and drove south again, with plenty of stops for pictures and the odd coconut.

    Aberdeen Falls
    Aberdeen Falls

    Sam decided to take a shorter route which went through some pretty scenery. At one of the junctions, we spotted a sign to at Aberdeen waterfall, so we asked Sam to take us there. Well the few km indicated took quite a bit, especially through a very rough area near a village. Sam asked a couple of times to make sure we had not gone wrong.

    An old Tea Plantation
    An old Tea Plantation

    We eventually got to the place, which was a path leading down the valley. Well we started going down (with Bhavni leading the charge), but it soon became apparent that this was not a little way. After a 100m+ climb down (on the dis-repaired path), we reached the falls. The falls were really nice and not many people must visit. After the required photo taking, we began the slog up in the heat. Arriving at the top we took a bit to recover before heading back.

    The Town
    Maskelia Town

    We proceeded to Maskelia, the nearest town to Adams Peak, where Bhavni and I bought some supplies for the coming day. Sam arranged for Lunch at a local Hotel (not touristy at all), where the proprietor led us in past the local bar and prepared for us some rice and curries. With drinks (including a beer for me), the total came to 880Rs.

    The Peak in the distance
    The Peak in the distance

    After we headed to the village near the base of Adams peak, and checked into our hotel for the night that Tankawara had arranged – the Punsisi Inn. Checking in the lady near the desk said we were a bit high, thinking nothing much as the building was only 3 stories, we were led up, and onto the hill side. Our rooms were the second highest row – 50m up. If we had known we would have not brought all our bags inside as the poor guys carried them up. Simple basic rooms, but that was all we needed.

    So we decided to bed down for the night after sorting out our stuff for the next day. Suddenly around 5.30, music started to reverberate around, from speakers in the village, with chants and hymns. This continued until around 9pm, so the plan to sleep early did not happen. It disturbed Bhavni so much, she managed to eat quite a few biscuits at 8pm. When the music finally stopped we managed to get some sleep.

    The gate at the beginning
    The gate at the beginning

    19th Monday

    Eeek, it was soon 1am when the alarm went off, so we got up and got ready, struggling a little, but just out the door before 2am and down the stairs to the street, where we turned right and started our walk. Near the beginning (after the village), there was some monks asking for addresses and donations – we gave 1000Rs before departing.

    A Stall on the way up
    A Stall on the way up

    So the beginning was not too bad, with the a few steps now and again, followed by short flights of stairs. But all too soon, those flights became more frequent and longer, until it was mostly climbing.

    The stairs were generally a little uneven, so that also did not help us. Though the couple of groups of guys passing us playing “Eye of the tiger” did amuse us.

    The bell at the top
    The bell at the top

    On the way up Bhavni talked a bit to some english/nz folks, who seemed to think we were foreigners and proceeded to describe Norfolk in relation to London. We just kept going for most of the time. I took longer breaks every 40-50 steps, whilst Bhavni climbed more slowly and took less breaks. We kept on saying at the next area we will grab some tea from one of the vendors on the roadside, but this never came, even with them telling us we were going to be early. Well after the last one told us we were 30 mins away from the top, the way got even more steeper, with handrails and zig zagging abit. We could see down now at the far of villages and the row of lights that marked our trail up.

    The Sunrise
    The Sunrise

    Roughly 3 hours after we had started our assent (5am) we came to the top. The police were quite friendly and told us keep our stuff secure as it gets quite crowded up here. Whilst we had a chance, we looked around the complex on the top – only 20m or so wide – going to see the “footprint”, which is a depression in a rock 7m above where the real footprint is meant to be buried. This is really holly so there were no photos allowed.

    The Triangular Shadow
    The Triangular Shadow

    After we found a spot facing east-ish (which was near the entrance), where we waited with a tourist who was from Belgium, and we got talking about places to see and go in Sri Lanka, (though he was a real backpacker). We had some thepla an biscuits whilst waiting.

    The Lake in the mist below
    The Lake in the mist below

    Slowly as more people arrived, the sky lightened and we could see misty mountains and mist covered valleys emerging. Spectacular. It was quite sudden the appearance of the sun – announced by a collective “ahh”. We took some more photos, then headed to the western end to look at the famous triangular shadow of the mountain we were on.

    We stared on our way down soon after, well I was in pain, the tendon on my right knee was really hurting. So for most of the going down with the rails, I kept on holding on to them to reduce the weight on my knee. Luckily the pain reduced a lot as I worked it and did stretching exercises, so soon enough I could go down just a bit slower then normal.

    Looking up at the peak
    Looking up at the peak

    We lent a walking stick to a local for a while (he had gone up the day before and had stayed the night near the top). It was his third time climbing – the second he had to give up 300m from the top as it was really busy then.

    We finally got to the hotel – 2 hours from the top at around 9am, where we found Sam near the reception – he said we should go use the room then have some breakfast, so that is what we did, though the climb to the rooms was a bit brutal.

    Tea time
    Tea time

    After showering and final packing, we went down to the dining area were we had breakfast – lots of toast and tea. We were then on the road by 10.15, on the way to our next stop – Nuwara Elia. It was quite a nice drive, with some picture opportunities on the way, especially with a few waterfalls and the tea plantations around.

     

     

    Waterfall in tea country
    Waterfall in tea country

    Whilst taking some pictures of a waterfall we noticed a tea “castle”, which we had to visit. We went to the lookout before sitting down and having a nice brew each. After which Bhavni and I bought a bit of tea from their shop. Getting to Nuwara Elia, it was a little past lunch. Sam suggested a place we could have lunch – the Apline Hotel – but they seemed to be taking a while, so we gave up and went to our hotel – Unique cottages. We asked about lunch and they were not sure as it was a bit late. Sam got a little angry as they told him no, but us yes after they found out. So we let Sam rest and for us it was vegetable rice, tea and a divine mango juice.

    The post office
    The post office

    After a little rest in our room – plush but a little small for the price, we went for a walk in the town. The buildings really have an old colonial style (deservedly little england). We bought a few supplies from one of the supermarkets. Hearing lots of noise, we saw the presidential convoy appear and disappear, going very fast through the town. We completed our walk around the block and rested at the hotel for a bit.

    At the Hill Club
    At the Hill Club

    Soon enough it was time to get ready and go to the Hill Club for dinner (shirt, jacket and trousers). It had been a bit fun as we had had to email them as they did not take phone bookings. Well after Sam picked us up and we drove past a couple of times trying to find it (though Bhavni recognised it from her researching), we found our selves at the posh club. I had to wear a tie (got away with my light jacket) – though I only did a half Windsor! Starters were superb, but the main meal – specials – were not so good. Desert was also quite nice. We then had coffee in front of the fire place, but I was a little fidgety as I was a bit tired now, so we got the bill and paid by dollers – though we had to sign for it, We found Sam outside in his car talking to his friend, so we quickly made it to the hotel for some well deserved sleep.

    20th Tuesday

    Mists below the plains
    Mists below the plains

    We really don’t do chilled holidays as our alarm went off at 4am and we got ready and went down. We checked out having to pay for lunch yesterday and collected our take away breakfast.

    We drove to Horton plains. I think we were still quite sleepy, as the most I remember is Sam pointing out milk farms for the first bit of the drive. As the dawn light started to appear, we were climbing and the views were becoming spectacular. We passed quite a few cars stopped to take pictures (we stopped a few times but briefly). Unfortunate we passed the best point to catch the sun rise and were on the plateau, when it rose. We did see a few larger buffalo animals though.

    Animals in the grasslands
    Animals in the grasslands

    At the entrance we paid in Rs as the dollar exchange was appalling (the guy said he had to go to Nuwara Elia to change it). We then went through the bag check – we could not take the Millo in, so we have it to Sam to take to the car. Well I suppose finding that stopped them looking at some of our other packages, which they would not allow. (Its not the food – its plastic in case you are going to litter – which we would not do).

    Dew and mists on the plains
    Dew and mists on the plains

    The walk is a circular walk on the plains, and as we set off, we saw a monkey in the trees disappear out of view. There were not that many animals to be seen, as we followed the track, going over what seems old river beds and other trails. Soon, we came to our first stop – The Little Worlds End, where we stopped for some photos and staring over the cliff. From here, we continued on to the main Worlds End.

    Worlds End
    Worlds End

    Getting to the worlds end, we were one of the first. The view was a little misty, but we could see quite far still. After a few photos, we climbed to the upper area and took some more photos before sitting down and looking out at the view. We ate a little of the food we took – minus an apple which rolled over the cliff. As it was getting busier, we left and continued on the trail which went inwards on the plateau.

    We got to Bakers fall area, and we took a path down that others seem to have taken – quite a slippery steep path.

    Bakers Fall the hard way
    Bakers Fall the hard way

    Getting to the bottom, we faced the bottom of the falls with the river running over smaller rapids. This was a good place to stop for us to have the rest of our packed breakfast. After the scramble up (easier than going down), we found there were stairs to the falls, however the view was not as good as the one we had got earlier. On the way back, we followed a small river, with some pool areas, until we got to the start. (Late starters were just starting the walk, with one even carying a prayer mat). We got to the car around 10.30am (and after saying hello to the friendly animal), we headed out on our way to Ella.

    The highest station
    The highest station

    The drive down was nice (descending nearly 1000m), going through forests and alpine areas, before getting back to tea plantations, with views of mountains all around. Getting to Ella, we went to see a hotel called 98 Acres, which is meant to be luxurious. It was with a superb view of the mountains and tea plantations.

    Little Adams Peak From Ella
    Little Adams Peak From Ella

    We then stopped for lunch at the Mount Heaven hotel. We sat on the terrace and ordered vegetarian rice and curry. They gave a bitter gourd curry, which we did not want, so Bhavni asked for some dhall, which the waiter initially mimed was all gone, but then went to see what could be done. We ended up with some fresh dhall which Bhavni enjoyed. After lunch we had a tour of some of the rooms – the first had a small pool in it, the large villa had a fish tank with lots of fish in it.

    We then drove to Kataragama, where we checked into our next hotel – The Orchin Boutique Hotel. We wanted to visit the famous temple here, but we decided to do this in the evening puja time, so we had a couple of hours. I decided I wanted a swim – Bhavni read a bit and asked after dinner.

    Narrow Road
    Narrow Road

    We met Sam later and went into town. Well its interesting parking as the locals are trying to flag down you to park so they can charge for looking after your car. We parked in a “car park” and walked it into the complex. It was really busy and noisy with the puja. Sam explained some of what was going on, and after we walked to the Stupa further away. There were some poor temple elephants chained up on the way which was a bit depressing.

    After we went back to the hotel where the waiter had set us up a nice candle lit table overlooking the pool, for our chips (which were delicious).

    Stork and Peacock in the tree
    Stork and Peacock in the tree

    21st Wednesday

    Guess what, we were up again at 4.20am as our Jeep was waiting for us at 5.30am. It was a bit of a ride to Yalla national park, getting there near dawn. There were not many cars, but the gate only just opened when we arrived. Trying to pay, we found they did not accept dollers (which is really unusual), so most of out Rs got used.

    Large Eagle
    Large Eagle

    Driving in, we saw quite a few gazelles, monkeys and lots of peacocks, including a shot of a peacock and a stork silhouetted in a tree. There were lots of buffalo around also. Eventually we also saw a couple of elephants. Then news came that a leopard had been spotted. So became a tedious convergence of lots of jeeps all wying for the shot of the leopard. Eventually I actually asked to forget about it and carry on. We then went briefly to the coast for a few shots then back for a bit more spotting – no crocodiles though, Finally on the way out we saw a whole lot of wild boars.

    Running Peacock
    Running Peacock

    We made our way back to the hotel (trying to go to a bank on the way which was useless as we did not have the passports on us). We had time to freshen up before leaving at midday for our next stop Galle.

    On the way we went to change some money. We went into a bank at one of the towns, but amusingly the person inside said not to buy from them, but instead go to the jewellers across the road as they would do a better rate. The jewellers indeed were a better rate 199Rs per pound (asking where we had been).

    Tusked Elephant
    Tusked Elephant

    Carrying on we had to make an emergency stop for some bananas. We had some Russian tourists there, who were trying to buy a coconut, but could not communicate – trying to give 200Rs. Saying it was too much produced a 1000Rs note. Anyway that got sorted then we were back on track. We stopped at a seaside restaurant, with a good view, but the trouble was the staff were not helpful and would not compromise about veg options. After we stopped for some coconuts before getting to Galle.

    Moored Fishing Vessels
    Moored Fishing Vessels

    Near the city, we quickly stopped to take a couple of snaps (from a distance) of the strange fishing technique that is on all the brochures with the person perched on a wooden platform in the sea. We had to quickly drive on before a person asked for money (going rate is 2000Rs).

    On top of Galle Walls
    On top of Galle Walls

    We got to our hotel – Tamarind Hill – Nice, and had a bit of time to freshen up before we had to meet Sam. He was a little late, meaning that we missed the sunset by 10 mins or so over the fort, but we still had some time to take photos in the light remaining. One of the locals would jump into the sea if you paid 500Rs, but not really for us. We had a talk around the fort with Bhavni having an ice cream, before finding the closest to a local restaurant in the fort. We had kottu! the local evening dish – stir fried roti and vegetables. We watched our food being made – noisy but fun. We even had banana roti for dessert.

    Making Kortu
    Making Kottu

    After dinner we went back to the hotel and relaxed. We stayed a bit in the lobby reading and I asked for a pen, which was amusing as the waiter accosted me on the way to the room saying that another waiter may not be able to work without the pen tomorrow.

    22nd Thursday

    Pool at the Hotel
    Pool at the Hotel

    We had told Sam that today we did wanted to take it easy and have a little more time at the hotel. To that end we still woke up at 7.30, but made our way to the pool and had a nice half hour swim in the forested surroundings.

    Kandian Wedding Dress
    Kandian Wedding Dress

    Getting ready we went for breakfast at around 9am. The hotel was being used by 2 different wedding parties for photos, so we saw proper Kandian dress and clothing whilst eating.

    Breakfast was a nice affair, though mostly western to Bhavni’s unfortune. We had another go at trying the curds with honey, but was not really our thing. After breakfast (and a few photos) we went to our room and got our items ready before checking out at 11 – I made a point of returning the pen.

    The Jungle at Jungle Beach
    The Jungle at Jungle Beach

    Our first port of call was to visit the famous Jungle beach, which involved driving up the local “hill” then parking and walking down to the beach. Its a really small beach and completely full of tourists sunbathing. We thoought it was busy but Sam said that normally you can hardly move there.

    Street in Galle Fort
    Street in Galle Fort

    After we drove into Galle and took some photos of the place in the light, with Bhavni and I walking around the block near the clock tower. Soon enough it was time to leave Galle.

    The drive north was mostly chilled, with Sams first stop a moonstone mine. The person showing us around said it was a short walk to the mine, which it was, but in the heat without sun protection it was a bit hot. The mine looked like the mine shown in the video of the place in Kandy, and it was fascinating to see first hand (even though no one was there). Bhavni kept on getting given shards of moonstone, until she had a small collection. Back near the showroom, we were then shown the cinnamon plantation and the area they produce the sticks and oil from the leaves. After looking at the showroom full of stones, we decided to get a small bottle of cinnamon oil which the gentleman showed was strong by dipping a bit in Bhavnis water bottle (which permanently marked it we found out later).

    Moonstone Mine
    Moonstone Mine

    Back on the road, we thought we deserved an ice cream, so gave Sam the task, When you are looking for something its harder to find, so it took a while before I spotted a shop selling it.

    What should we charge them?
    What should we charge them?

    It was getting past lunch and we had decided we wanted to eat a propper local lunch. The first place Sam took us to had basically run our of rice and curry so we found another and ordered 2 portions there. Interesting building – they were going for black interior and loud music. However the food was good and I even had a milo and Bhavni an ginger beer. The restaurant staff (probably never having had proper tourists stop) were putting their heads together (and we think discussing how much extra to charge us). When the bill came it was … 360Rs. Enough said. Outside we saw how the rotti’s were prepared to make Kuttu and a cow just walking on the road with articulated lorries going around.

    Bye to Sam
    Bye to Sam

    From here we drove to MT Lavina (electing not to do the river cruise that Sam suggested) and checked into the Mt Lavina Boutique Lodge. The caretakers of the property made us some tea and we said bye to Sam over a nice cup.

    We were the only guests staying so we got the top floor apartments, in this really nice and unusual hotel. Our bathroom for example was partially open to the outside on one side (but private) and we had a sitting area on our floor also open aired with lots of plants.

    Mt Lavina Hotel
    Mt Lavina Hotel

    We had a brief walk to the Mt Lavina Hotel (and looking inside), before going back to the hotel, then back out for dinner. The caretakers organised a tuk tuk and we went to the local beach front to the Loon Tao restaurant. It was a nice meal on the beach with the sea sand and live music (though it took a while to get our bill). We called the tuk tuk and went back to the hotel. He wanted to charge 200Rs – yea right.

    As we were not sleepy we watched “The Terminal” trough the mosquito net curtain.

    23rd Friday

    At the station
    At the station

    We did not get up until 8am. For breakfast it was fresh hoppers – nice. I had one egg hopper as well. Followed with some nice tea,

    Leaving we got to the station, just missing the 9.45 train to town, so we waited for the 10am train (which was 10 mins late) in the really hot morning.

    Fort Clock Tower
    Fort Clock Tower

    The train was really cheap – 20Rs total and took 25 mins to get into town. From the main station we walked out and went into the pettah. That was really busy with lots and lots of little shops, crowds and commotion. After a bit we then made our way to the Fort area, walking right past the presidential palace and seeing the clock tower.

    The Town Hall
    The Town Hall

    One of the locals (sure they are all part of some plot) started talking to us and then said that a gem outlet was having a big sale on – then actually called a cab to take us there – really. But it actually was in the direction we wanted to go and was at a rate of only 50Rs (when it should be 100Rs), so we went with the flow. Well we were in the outlet for a bit as they showed us some jewels. In the end we did buy a small moonstone, as it was cheaper then I had been told at the mine yesterday.

    Statues in the temple
    Statues in the temple

    We walked to the Viharamahadevi Park near to where we were (after a brief stop at a cutlery and crockery shop). The park was not that interesting but we had a couple of lolly pops before getting to the Town Hall and taking some pictures there. With the heat it was time for a break – going to a cafe overlooking the area. I had an ice coffee and Bhavni had her usual ginger beer.

    Bhavni wanted to go shopping so we found the Odel near by. What a disappointment for us – it pretty much was like a Debenhams, so we were soon out.

    Statues on the river
    Statues on the river

    Luckily out next place to visit was not too far away – the Gangaramaya Temple. 300Rs entry a person, it was full of lots and lots of artifacts, from the ivory at the front, to lots of small statues and bookcases full of pictures and stuff. The famous wall of Buddha statues was there also. When leaving we found out one of the monks had been to UK (Birmingham) for a while but did not like the cold. He said we could catch the 101 bus back to the pettah area.

    Busy Petta Streets
    Busy Pettah Streets

    Getting to the main road to catch the bus we saw another place related to the temple (Seema Malaka), which was a little temple complex in the lake. We had the tickets so we could go there to see the statues surrounding the small complex and take some photos.

    Back on the main road, we found that the buses came past really full, with people almost hanging out of the doors – school finish time, but we managed to get on one – an experience. The conductor somehow managed to keep squeezing though collecting money, whilst I tried to stay upright and safeguard my possessions at the same time.

    Sun Setting on the Terrace
    Sun Setting on the Terrace

    At the main station we got out and went through the Pettah again. This time we bought some presents, a shirt for me and a Saree for Bhavni’s mother. We then back around the fort for some more photos and then onto the Galle Face Green. This was quite a long walk in front of the sea, with lots of other people enjoying the front. Another few ice lollies for us on the way as we watched the sun get a little lower and the kites flying on the green.

    Chilling On the Terrace
    Chilling On the Terrace

    We arrived at the Galle Face hotel and went to the terrace restaurant there to watch the sun set over the ocean whilst having some drinks. We walked to the Cinnamon Grand Hotel where there was a Sri Lankan restaurant, but we found it was all booked up, so we walked to the recommended place – Raja Bojan. We stated recognizing the area and realized this was where the tuk tuk had dropped us near the jewelry place.

    We had the buffet – lots of food but so so quality after the good food was had had previously. It was too late to get a train back, so we got a tuk tuk – the guy gave a good estimate of the cost to get back (he had a meter) and it was a long way – 10Km. We gave him including tip 450Rs.

    Back in the hotel we tried to watch a film, but we gave up as we were both shattered.

    24th Saturday

    Half of our sitting area
    Half of our sitting area

    Our last day here. We had a slightly lazier start and went down for breakfast – this time western. Today was going to be a lazy relaxed day, so after going up and sorting our bags out, we went out and just walked to the main road, to stop at some supermarkets to get some bits and pieces. We also found a Saree shop that had different designs and got one for my mother.

    Crossing the train tracks
    Crossing the train tracks

    Getting back to the hotel, we chilled in the lounge during the hottest part of the day, watching a film and reading a little, before going out again at 3.30. We walked to the beach (crossing the rail way tracks) and had a walk along to the Mt Lavina hotel. It looked like it was getting cloudy so we thought we should get back in case it rains.

    Lavinia Beach
    Lavinia Beach

    Whilst waiting we saw how some of the dishes are cooked and Bhavni started making avid notes, right until our taxi turned up at 6. We took some photos with our hosts and then were on our way. We managed to get to the airport at 7.15 with using the highway, where we checked in.

    Bhavni did some more searching for gifts, but there was not that much around and all in dollers. We were hungry so we got some rice and curry for $10. Apparently chicken is vegetarian, and the guy seemed supprised we wanted the rice changed with the chicken juice all over it.

    Bye to our hosts
    Bye to our hosts

    The flight to AUH was ok – certainly better than the one to Sri Lanka. We then boarded the A380 to London and were given 3 seats between us, allowing us to mostly sleep on the way.

    At the airport father had left way too early and was waiting for us in Costa as we came out in the cold.

  • Berlin 2014

    Berlin 2014

    Wednesday 3rd December 2014

    Cathedral on Museam Island
    Cathedral on Museum Island

    We had to wake up early today at 5.30, to be ready for our pick up at 6.30, with the taxi arriving early to boot. Soon we were on our way to Heathrow, arriving at terminal 2 just gone 7.20. A quick check in into German Wings (with forgetting to print the baggage tag) and we went through security. There was not too much shopping that we wanted to do, so we sat in one of the restaurants and had some food. I had some eggs Florentine whilst Bhavni had a pastry.

    Archatecture on Museam Island
    Architecture on Museum Island

    Soon enough it was time to board and fly; it was quite a quick flight and soon enough we were landing in Tigel. After clearing customs, we had to work out way round this old style airport to go to the tourist office there, where we got the welcome pack, zone a,b&c with entrance to Museum Island also. We then went outside and had to wait around 10 minutes for the TXL bus, starting to feel the cold, which took us to Beussellstabe, after which we changed to the S-Bhan, catching the clockwise ring to Landsburger Allee, which was where our hotel – Hotel Andel – was located. We went out the long way as it took a 5 minute walk to get to the hotel.

    Monkey
    Monkey

    Checking in, we were given a room on the second floor. Freshening up we then were out. We caught the M5 tram, from just outside the hotel to Hakinsher Markt, the terminus. We were quite hungry so we ducked into a pizzeria there and had a large vegetarian pizza, with Bhavni having a non-alcaholic beer also.

    Spot Sejul
    Spot Sejul

    It was a short walk to museum island where the cathedral is also. We settled for going to the Old national gallery – 3 floors of artwork. The first 2 floors were mostly artwork associated with Germany and Prussia, but the third was a special exhibit, paintings of Mauri Leaders from New Zealand. By the time we finished it was just after 5pm, so we walked towards Alexanderplatz, looking at some of the shops on the way (kitchen and alcohol and shoes). Near Alexanderplatz there was a Christmas market, which we went into, wondering around and eating some of those suger coated nuts and having some warm mulled wine.

    Night near the Cathedral
    Night near the Cathedral

    It was getting close to 7pm when we finished, so we started looking for a restaurant (for some reason my phone was playing up), but we could not really see anything that was nice where we were walking. So in the end we got back on a tram going to Hakinsher Markt (as we knew there were eateries around there), but we got of at the next stop as from the tram we spotted some restaurants, literally around the corner from where we were.

    Alaxanderplatz Xmas Market
    Alaxanderplatz Xmas Market

    We had dinner at Vapiano (Rishuls favourite), having a pizza, pasta and a tirimisu. When leaving we had a crazy druggie type person start to follow us laughing his head off, so we ducked into a bar, so that he would not come near us. The bar man told him where to go. I had a coffee, whilst Bhavni had a hot chocolate, which she sent back as she was not happy with the milk in it. After, it was the tram back to the hotel. We fell asleep quickly.

    Thursday 4th December

    Monument to the Fallen
    Monument to the war victims

    So I was up at 7am so that we could be downstairs for breakfast at 8am in the hotel restaurant, which was a continental buffet, simple, but filling enough. Getting our stuff from the room, we caught the tram to Hakinsher Markt pretty much straight away, and were there at 9.20. Well we were quite early so we went for a walk around. Unfortunately all the shops (apart from cafes) opened after 10am, so we had to brave the cold – Bhavni suffering the most. Completing the walk nearer 10, we bought our tickets for the walking tour, then get some coffee and hot chocolate as the tour started at 10.30.

    Preserved Wall
    Preserved Wall

    There were 13 other people on the tour (English speaking), and the guide – Nickolai – was originally from Sofia in Bulgaria, but had lived in America most of his life. The tour started with the new Cathedral on Museum island then went down the royal boulevard. There was plenty to see (and dont forget the name Schinkel), with lots of history, including the memorial for the war victims (Neue Wache), followed by the square where the Nazi book burning of 20,000 books took place.

    Checkpoint Charlie
    Checkpoint Charlie

    Then it was towards the French quarter, with the twin churches, followed by the wall and Checkpoint Charlie before lunch. Lunch was at a cafe, Bhavni and I had hot chocolate. From there we saw the site of Hitlers bunker – now a car park, and some buildings from the 3rd Riche era. After it was towards the Memorial to the murdered Jews, a strange place near the American Embassy, finally finishing up at the Brandenburg Gate. We also were told the window at the Hotel Adlon where MJ hung the baby out from.

    Jewish Memorial
    Jewish Memorial

    After the tour we walked to the Reichstag, (the German government building). The entry is free but you have to book ahead so instead we had a look around the area, seeing the memorial to the Sinti and Roma people and then took the 100 bus to Hakinsher Markt, then walking to Alexander Platz where we went into C&A and bought Bhavni some shoes. With warm shoes we were able to proceed; we walked up a few streets to Momos – a vegetarian momo restaurant that Bhavni had found, but when we got there, even though the lights were on, the door was closed. Disappointed we started to head back towards a station so we could eat at one of the restaurants that we had walked pass before. It just to  happened that I looked back and saw someone approach the door, and not re-appear. Bhavni being sceptical did not believe me, but when we got there, the owner was there, so we sat for some momos, having a try of all the different ones (fried and steamed) – nice.

    Brandenburg Gate
    Brandenburg Gate

    After the meal, we walked to Museum island and went to the Noyse museum, which was the museum with old artifacts, starting with mummies from Egypt, to Greek and other cultures and bronze and stone age. The museum building its self was interesting as it was heavily damaged in the war, but has been restored sometimes to the way it was with the Prussian empire.

    Museum
    Museum

    Leaving the museum at 7, we made our way to the twin churches in the French quarter (with Bhavni not believing I knew the way), as this was where our guide earlier had said that the better market was. Well it even had a cover charge. It was a lot busier than the other market we had been to, but we still had our nuts, roasted chestnuts and mulled drinks, with Bhavni buying dried apple crisps also. There was a large section indoors, so we were out of the cold for a bit also.

    Xmas Market
    Xmas Market

    By the time we finished it was getting late, so we caught the 200 bus from the main road, which took us to the other side of the Volkspark Friedrichshain, where we went to another find of Bhavnis – Taleh Thai, which turned out to be quite a nice restaurant, with good food. It was nearly 11 by the time we finished dinner; the owners suggested taking a bus on the main street and then catching the ring to the hotel. That was going to take a while, so we walked around the park (through would be quicker, but we did not fancy going in the dark), before catching a passing tram for one stop.

    Friday 5th December

    Entrance
    Entrance to Sachsenhausen

    So as we were early the day before, we woke up a little more leisurely and were having breakfast at 8.15. Catching the tram to Hakinsher Markt, we met the tour people and got tickets for the tour to Oranianburg and the Sachsenhausen concentration camp. It was a bit annoying as they did not give us the extra discount that they should have because the guide yesterday did not sell us the tickets.

    A Horrible Place
    A Horrible Place

    Getting some sandwiches for lunch, it was just after 10, when we left with our guide Maria, taking the train to the central station, where we met up with a couple of people from the western meeting point. There was a couple from NZ, who Bhavni got talking to. It was a 25 minute 40km ride out to Oranianburg, and as it was busy, we walked 20 minutes to the camp entrance. A perfect day for the tour – cold, very foggy and eerie.

    Sony Center
    Sony Center

    Suffice it to say, the tour was not rosy, with the horrific things done here (although there was good things here and there), so much so that one of the couples with children completely disappeared, and Bhavni ended up waiting outside some of the areas. However, i think it was less horrific (as it had been sanitised over the years) then for example the killing fields.

    We had lunch huddling around a radiator, at the kitchens complex before seeing the last couple of places.

    A Hot Beverage
    A Hot Beverage

    We walked back to the station and got on the train to Berlin. However, instead of getting off with the group at the second stop, we went to the next station which was Potsdamer Platz. This was the new modern area, with the Sony center and other new buildings. Well we decided to book an IMAX showing of Penguins of Madagascar, and had a walk around the markets nearby in the mean time. After the show, we had another wonder, before having dinner at a Indian restaurant there. The food for me was ok, but not Bhavni’s favourite.

    We got to the hotel and after a bit of rest (my wife was tired), we went up to the Sky Bar, it was busy, but we found 2 places and had a drink, looking out over the city.

    Saturday 6th December

    Victory Column
    Victory Column

    So this was the last day here, we had an even more later breakfast at 8.30, after which we collected our bags and checked out leaving our bags there. It was a nice sunny (and cold) day. We took the tram towards Alaxanderplatz, then the 100 bus which went to the Berlin pride monument (Victory Column). We met one of the people from the tour who said going in was definitely worth it, so we bought the tickets and after a brief look at the exhibits at the bottom, climbed to the top, up the many steps, for a really good lookout of the city from the park. We could see lots of the places we had been to in eastern Berlin, but so far this was the furthest west (except the airport). We could see Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag, the twin churches and bits on the museum island. It was getting quite busy so we went to the bottom level looking at the mosaics there, before leaving and catching the next 100 bus.

    View back east towards Mitte
    View back east towards Mitte

    The bus took us past the Berlin aquarium and zoo. We got out near the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, which is a reminder of the bombings in the war. We walked inside the main entrance, but did not want to go right in. We then saw the new beehive church, before having a walk around the obligatory Christmas market that was there.

    Memorial Church
    Memorial Church

    We walked around a couple of the shopping centers there (one called the Bikini center), before we took the 200 bus towards the Sony center, as Bhavni was in a mood to shop, and had spotted the Desigual shop the day before, but it was even more expensive than the uk. In the end Bhavni got a nice scarf and we had Falafal in the food court at the Leipziger Platz.

    Shopping Mall
    Shopping Mall

    After we made our way to the twin churches to go to a chocolate shop – Fassbender & Rausch. The shop had lots of cool models in chocolate (though some were cheats with being mostly wafer biscuits coated in chocolate). However here were lots of really cool items. Bhavni got a couple of chocolate desert pots.

    We headed back to the hotel from here, picked up our bags and left for the airport (5pm). Asking about the entrance to the station, the receptionists must have thought we were strange, as the stairs were so obvious to the left from outside the hotel.

    Chocolate Model of Parlement Building
    Chocolate Model of Parliament Building

    Funny enough the train came straight away and the connecting TXL bus was waiting when we came out the station. This meant that we were at the airport too early to check in, and had to wait 20 minutes till it opened. After checking in and going through security, there was not much to do. Bhavni found a stashed 10 euros, so she could buy some gifts, and I could have my hot tea.

    The flight left early, so that we were at heathrow 30 minutes before schedule. Father picked us up.

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  • Montenegro 2014

    Montenegro 2014

    Monday 15th September 2014

    View of Dubrovni
    View of Dubrovnik from the lookout

    With Shelina’s wedding over and our last morning in Radisson Blu Dubrovnik, we woke up nice and early as our car was being delivered at 10am. Calling Mitens and parentage’s apartment we said we would be going down for breakfast now at 8am. Miten was still getting up… There were a couple of the guests around so we said hello to a few and hello to my parents who were in their usual area for breakfast.

    The Bay of Kator
    The Bay of Kator

    We wanted to eat out in the sun, so we took a table just outside on the balcony. All was going well, I went to get some more food, but when I got back, Bhavni was being shown to another table, with a bemused look. After settling down I found out the reason we moved was that Bhavni had a furry friend visit her enjoying her milk and cereal, and when telling the waiter they said it lives just there. Miten and parentage appeared a little while later as we were finishing, so we sat for a bit longer before going up to get our bags and check out.

    Walking in a town on the Bay
    Walking in a town on the Bay

    Well the car was not going to come at 10am, it was going to come anytime from 10-11am, and indeed it came just before 11am. After signing the documents and loading up, we were on our way in the white estate. We stopped at the lookout point to get some good views of Dubrovnik, before driving past the airport and towards the border. The border crossing was easy and did not take that long, even with me being amused at the singing security guard. Now in Montenegro we drove for a bit before making a pit stop for some drinks and coffee, which was surprisingly good. After all of us had a wonder in a supermarket there, to get some supplies for dinner and the next few days, before heading on.

    Relaxing or not yet buying tablecloths
    Relaxing or not yet buying tablecloths

    Soon enough we were at the optional ferry crossing, which we drove passed and instead started driving around the bay of Kotor – a big sheltered bay with lots of little villages around it and monasteries and other ruins on island dotted around. We stopped at a village on the way, parking just outside, which was 1euro. It was a nice village and Bhavni, Miten and I went for a little bit of a walk, letting the parentage walk casually at a slower pace. It was quite nice on the shore, with old buildings and restaurants. After getting to the main church, we made our way back, stopping for ice cream for most. We joined the parentage, looking at table cloths from street sellers, but luckily they did not have any big ones.

    Kator old town
    Kator old town

    Back on the road, we only had a short scenic ride before arriving at Kotor, a world heritage site also. The parking was near, and we soon were entering one of the gates of the city. The city is a bit like Dubrovnik, but more older feeling, and we had a slow walk around a few of the streets, before stopping for some lunch at one of the numerous cafes. Chips, pasta and salad later we carried on our walk, up to the water gate.

    Above Kator on the Walls
    Above Kator on the Walls

    I was eyeing up the walk to the walled positions up the mountain and luckily Miten took the parentage, whilst Bhavni and I made the walk up. We asked at the entrance how long it would take – 25 minutes to the church – we were there in 10. What a great view as we were going up and at the church, being able to see a lot of the sheltered bay and the yachts on it. A pity we could not go higher as we did not have the time. We spotted Miten and Co near the entrance to the city and took a couple of pictures of them.

    The beach at dusk
    The beach at dusk

    Getting back down, we went by another way, which was not quite as nice as the way we ascended as the path was more broken. We met at the entrance where the rest were having a drink at a cafe. After a bit we were then back off. We drove to Budva, and just past to the hotel where we were staying. We checked in and soon found our selves unloaded and on floor 9, where we relaxed for a bit, using the balcony and having snacks. Just before it got dark we headed down to the boardwalk for a stroll along the beach front. Soon  enough we had started to break into groups, with the parentage first taking their time, then Miten slowly disappearing behind. Bhavni and I walked to the end of the beach front, found our selves a little grocery store and got some milk, before starting back. Eventually we met up with Miten, then found the parentage at the ramp up to the hotel. We managed to go in without inviting a stray dog in.

    For dinner I made some pasta, which was ok as I went a bit past al dente. There was also some thepla and nasta. After a bit of tv it was then time to retire.

    Tuesday 16th

    Sweti Stafan
    Sweti Stefan

    After a decent night, we awoke and had breakfast, with the usual waiting around with there only being one bathroom, and Miten not being a morning person. Nevertheless we managed to get out by 9.30am. We were soon at the lookout overlooking Sweti Stefan, an amazing looking town, in that its on a small island connected to the mainland by a small causeway. We took plenty of photos and Bhavnis mother got lots of photos from tourists who had not seen a sari before. From here we drove to Vranjina, which is a small town in the Skadarsko national park. We stopped at the main stop and had some coffee.

    Lake
    Skadarsko National Park

    Bhavni and I went for a bit of a walk along the road bridge, to look at some of the ruins. On the way back we got talking to one of the boat owners and after a bit of negotiation we had booked ourselves for a boat ride to see some of the island monasteries. We were soon enough on the small speed boat with our friendly but not English speaking driver. On the way we saw an old Turkish prison – a ruined building on an island as well as lots of other ruined buildings and bird life.

    Turkish Prison
    Turkish Prison

    Our destination was a monastery 20 minutes away. On arrival we all eventually disembarked (after a bit of discussion) and made our way up to the walls of the monastery. We knocked for a while but there was no answer, so we went back to the boat (stopping to look at the terrapins). Just as we were getting in the Monk appeared and started talking to our guide, before welcoming us in (we joked the terrapin that I held called for backup).

    The Monk in the Monestory
    The Monk in the Monastery

    The monk spoke good English and as he showed us around the place. He had help today, but normally he lives on his own and has been for the last 20 years. He used to be an electrical engineer from Serbia. We all sat down and he gave us some fresh home made pomegranate juice form the trees on the island, which was really nice and refreshing. We sat for a while on the benches taking in the view, before thanking him and going back to the boat. He gave us a parting gift of grapes.

    Look who is steering
    Look who is steering

    On the boat ride back we got the obligatory shots of everyone steering the boat- (except me :). From here we carried on on the E80 to Podgorcia, the capital. Driving right into town, we found parking (Miten having to tell the attendant there is a space), then had a wonder. As usual there was a bit too much shopping going on, but we did see some cool robot statues made from recycled bits and pieces as well as some older buildings.

    We had food at one of the cafes, outside on a walking street – the usual affair – chips and salad.

    Ostrg Above
    Ostrg Above

    Our next agenda was the Ostrog Monastery, which is a serbian monastery, set high up on a cliff face. From the capital we had to go north north west. Unfortunately the marked road was under repair and impassable. So we went another way. Initially it was really good going, as the road was hardly used, and we could drive at a good speed. But then we came to a small village, and asking the directions we found we had to go up a really small high gradient track road, which wound up the mountain. More amusing we had to pass a broken down van, which involved getting out and moving boulders and branches and slowly squeezing past trying not to go too near the edge. Really interesting driving for me.

    Entrance to Ostrig
    Entrance to Ostrig

    Eventually we got onto the more normal road and made our way up to the monastery. I lost count of how many switchbacks in the road there were. Eventually getting to the top we parked and went into the monastery. The base was a big plaza, which had some building and religious shrines on one side and a view on the other. But the actual monastery as at the end, completely carved from the rock face. Up 3 flight of stairs was the top, where there was another nice lookout at the cliff and the route up. We stayed a little while taking in the sight before heading back. Next we drove towards the lower monastery, which was a much more conventional place. There was a service going on, so we only briefly had a look around before leaving.

    We were then on our way back. We had to drive back almost towards Podgarcia (an alternate route via cevo was a bit hilly and had too narrow roads for the fading light). We then drove onto Centine, the old capital. Parking we walked all the way down the main walking street, before giving up and having dinner at Obolisk Pizzeria, having – you guessed it – pizza and salad. We then had a quick driving tour of the town before heading back to Budva.

    As we came back to the city we found our selves well above the city, with it shining down below – really nice. At the hotel, we settled in and called it a night after the obligatory tea.

    Wednesday 17th

    Budva Old Town
    Budva Old Town

    Our last day. We were a bit lazier getting out today, having a longer breakfast and getting out and checked out just before 10am. After a bit of debate about the time today, I (as it was me driving) decided to go into Budva historic town and have a look at the city. We found some parking and walked a bit near the waterfront into the walled city. We left the parentage sitting and relaxing, whilst we walked around, with us to meet in 20 mins. Miten and Bhavni were looking at shops whilst I walked around looking at the buildings. The town is similar to Kotor and nice to walk around.

    Budva from above
    Budva from above

    At the 20 mins I went back to the meeting place, but no-one was there, and no-one was near the wall entrance either. I found Miten asking where the parentage are… This was followed by all three of us looking for them for the next 20 mins. Eventually Miten found them, in some shops. So a little late we headed off.

    At the top of
    At the top of Lovcen National Park

    Retracing our steps from yesterday we headed towards Centine, and then to Lovcen National park. This was also with lots of switchbacks as we went ascending. There were a few stops on the way, but we continued going higher, until we got to the end. I drove right up to the end of the road as the parentage would not enjoy the steep climb up. There was not much space up the top, but one of the people there let me park. After enjoying the views at the bottom, Bhavni, Miten and I ascended the steps – up 100m to the top. Talk about amazing views, even with the large amount of clouds. At the top (Vidikovac) is a shrine to one of the founders of Montenegro, but we did not know at the time, so did not go in. Instead we enjoyed the view. You could see the Bay of Kotor and the Skadarsko national park as we recognised the hills we saw from the boat trip yesterday. Apparently on a clear day you can see all of Montenegro and even the coast of Italy. Bhavni and Miten went down first, but I stayed a while longer enjoying the view. I finally came down, but instead of the stairs, I took the outside path. The rest spotted me coming down.

    The View
    Near the clouds at the top

    At the base was a restaurant and we went and sat in an outside area, having drinks. Luckilly we just avoided a large group which would have meant that the drinks would have taken ages. I enjoyed the cold, but everyone else slowly stated buttoning up their clothes.

    Viewpoint on the way down
    Viewpoint on the way down

    On the way back to the car Miten got talking to the owner of the souverneer shop, his name was Vladamir and he explained the history of the park and montenigro as well as giving Miten some free gifts. Saying bye I managed to turn the car around and start driving towards Kotor, slowly making our way down. There were some amazing view points, where we could clearly see the Bay of Kator and also Tivat and its air strip – though at one I had to go first as Miten was worried about the insects around, but he followed soon enough after seeing I was unharmed.

    View of the Bay of Kator
    View of the Bay of Kator

    Soon we joined the road before Kotor, and drove past, then around the Bay itself. Retracing our route in, we got to the border crossing. It was a bit busier here and the lanes were not clearly marked (cutting in time), but soon enough we were through and entering Croatia again. You can see that the state of the roads are just a bit better in Croatia than Montenegro, so we made good time, such that we were driving past the Airport at 5pm. So the general consensus was to go to Dubrovnik, which by the time we drove to the old town, found parking (and got a ticket from a person who had got too many and approached Miten) was around 6pm.

    Sunset over Dubrovnik
    Sunset over Dubrovnik

    We ate ate one of the restaurants near the harbour area – Chips and salad, before going to the airport, with the setting sun and Miten and Bhavni competing for pictures (and me getting told of for not stopping). We had a bit of fun returning the car as they took a while before inspecting it. Checking in, we were at the same time as Dilen and Hetal. We also had a few others around going back to the uk.

    The flight back was ok, I even managed to sleep for a bit. At Gatwick, the bags took a while to come out, but the worst bit was that the taxi to pick us up did not show up, so we ended up getting one of the expensive cabs back and sending the parentage with Dilen and Hetal.

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  • Canada 30th June – 7th July

    Canada 30th June – 7th July

    Malign Canyon
    Malign Canyon

    30th June Monday

    Medicine Lake
    Medicine Lake

    Today we were up nice and early at 7.30 so we could get ready, make lunch and be out of the apartment by 9.15.

    We drove to Malign Canyon as our first stop, which is only a little way out of town, down the Malign road. The canyon is quite cool as it has been eroded by the underground rivers flowing from the lake systems.

    We took a walk around the main trail, stopping for plenty of photo opportunities on the way. For the first half its all downhill, but then you have to return, but still easy compared to the walks we had done; the elderly were doing it.

    Finally a moose
    Finally a moose

    From there we carried on, on the Malign lake road towards the lake, where on the way we had to stop for a photo – though far away it was a moose. We stopped at the Medicine Lake next which already had a few people stopped, taking photos. With the cloud cover the lake looked quite dull, but the mountain backdrops were still quite cool. The lake is not actually a lake, but part of the malign river backing up, so its level changes alot over the year.

    Summit
    Summit of a bald hill

    Carrying on, with spotting a mouse in the distance as well as another black bear, we got to Malign Lake, driving past the main car parking area where the main facilities are to the part next to the fire road.

    Another Summit
    Another Summit

    The start of the walk is up the old fire road which goes all the way up nearly to the top of the hills. The walking here was a bit so so as there were very large trees to the side of the road obscuring the view, but eventually we came to a side path, going much more vertically up, which we took.

    Some amazing peaks
    Some amazing peaks

    It was much harder going as it was a trail and very steep, but we got to have some brilliant views of the lake and surrounding mountains. There was a lot of cloud drifting past, so often the peaks would be hidden. As we got to the top of the side path, we again joined people who had taken the main road instead.

    Model of the area
    Model of the area

    We had a bit of a rest talking to some people before the final push. The bold hills are a series of peaks and we aimed for one of them, which was the marked finish. We ended up walking around the top of the hill, so that we could climb up without going across too much snow.

    Verical Ranges
    Veritcal Ranges

    At the top we found a bolder (after photos) and had some food before it started drizzling. Another family had come up the top, and recommended going down the big snow drift as they had come up it. Not sure it was great advice; I was ok, but Bhavni bless her slid down (like me also), but stopped her self with her hands so she got cold and suffered most of the way down the trail.

    Going down we just took the main road, which was going to be easier than the side road. At the bottom, we went to the Malign lake and had tea at the restaurant there. There was a great model of the area and mountains near the malign lake, so it was nice to put in perspective where we had been and the sights we saw.

    Medicine Lake in the Sun
    Medicine Lake in the Sun

    Driving back to Jasper, the weather had really improved and we followed the sheer mountain that were really impressive. By the time we got to Medicine lake the sun was starting to come through so we stopped for some more photos. Getting back to town we had a bit of time to unwind and relax before we went for dinner, again to the pasta restaurant, but had to go for a walk as it was busy till 9pm.

    1st July – Canada day

    Pyramid Mounain
    Pyramid Mountain

    Today is Canada day – and as we had no major walks planed, we had a bit of a lie in, however we were still breakfasted and out by 10.30. After taking to the people in the information centre, we decided to abandon the flag raising ceremony and instead head to the Pyramid lake – just a short drive away. Here we had a walk around on the island and then Bhavni decided she wanted to go boating, so we ended up going for 30 minutes of canoing – quite relaxing in the middle of the lake, though Bhavni could not row a lot, so there was a bit of going around in circles.

    Mounties in the parade
    Mounties in the parade

    We managed to get into town, park at the apartment and sit at the kerb for the start go the parade at 1pm. It was an amusing parade with lots of silly things going on, but we did get to see mounties, and gather some sweets.

    Angel Falls
    Angel Falls

    After the parade, we headed back to the apparent and had some lunch, leaving soon after though. Our next destination was to the Edith Cavel mountain to see the angel falls – it would have been a nice walk to the meadows if they were open, but we were still to early in the season. The angel falls is actually a glacier, that is from the mountain. We were opposite it on an adjacent slope, and below there was a frozen lake with lots of warnings not to go near there because of falling ice – though plenty were down there.

    Near Edith Cavel
    Near Edith Cavel

    From here we went and did a walk called the valley of 5 lakes, which as the name implies is a walk in a valley with 5 different lakes to go round, each a different hue due to the local conditions and depths. The only downside to this is there were mosquitos….

    A perfect spot over a lake
    A perfect spot over a lake

    The walk itself had quite a few gradients and it took a bit before we got to see the first lake, but they were nice and tranquil, especially when we came to some red deck chairs that had been put out overlooking a perfect spot over the 3rd lake. We sat for a while enjoying the view and having an apple each, before continuing (Bhavni kept on getting scared by a chipmunk and a baby chipmunk).

    Views from the Icefield Parkway
    Views from the Icefield Parkway

    Finishing the walk, we went back to town and freshened up, going to the pizza place again for dinner. After, there was a bit of packing to be had then I microwaved some popcorn and headed back into town for the firework display. It was amusing that we kept on being told to move to a safer location, but we finally settled on a place not far from the main park. It took a while for the display to start, but I was impressed with the fireworks which went on for a while. Nice end to the day.

    Falls
    Falls

    2nd Wednesday

    We were leaving Jasper today, so it was a bright and early start to be out of the Moose haven suite by 9am, after saying bye to our hosts. We tried to take the 93a road, but were blocked by a train going through, so I did a u turn and took the main 93, which becomes the Icefield Parkway highway.

    Athabasca Glacier
    Athabasca Glacier

    There are plenty of stops on the way, along this spectacular route and our first was the Athabasca falls, which were quite nice, with a few different areas to view from. A really cool bit was descending the stairs to the lower lookout, which was like from a scifi movie in that the walls were water smoothed stone. It was a good place to take some photos and also we had some fun with photos with fake tight squeezes.

    On the glacier
    On the glacier

    After we then drove to Sunwapta falls, which is again nice but its amazing how this one does not look that amazing after seeing some of the ones we had seen. There were plenty of views and stops along the way as we went through this impressive valley with mountains on both sides.

    Parker Ridge
    Parker Ridge

    Eventually we got the the icefield parkway at around 11.40am, including Bhavni making me turn around as she thought the lookout bridge they had built was it; buses only. We found parking soon enough, but there was a massive queue when we got in, which took over 20 minutes to get through. Apparently  some of the buses were in for servicing and hence we got the next available tour – 1.15pm.

    View from the Ridge
    View from the Ridge

    As we had about an hour wait, we headed to the seating and had some of out packed food with some tea, there we set next to an older couple. They turned out to be American and had come driving from home, Bhavni and the lady had a conversation as she turned out to be a nurse. They were on a tour 15mins earlier than us. Our tour consisted of getting on a normal bus, which went to the entrance way and dropped us off to board the special arctic buses. We were given an amusing commentary by the driver all the way to the glacier. It was definitely a tour for Grandparents, as we just walked on ice which had been compacted by the company, in a safe massive area, but we got much closer to the glaciers that were around here.

    Bow Lake
    Bow Lake

    Getting back to the main area we got back on the road and drove the short distance to the Parker Ridge car park at around 3pm. This really was a brilliant short (but ok – 250m) walk. As you went up, you could see the road on valley we were driving on, but nearer the top the other side came into view after the trees disappearing. What a view of the Saskatchewan glacier. We took plenty of photos and helped another guy take photos (whos partner eventually made it).

    Descending we were back on our way at around 5pm. The views were still amazing all the way. Our last proper stop on the way was to see Bow glacier and Bow lake, which was really nice from high up – though I got hit by a member of the public, trying to get the mosquitos. We got to Lake Louise at around 7pm, where we checked into the Mountaineer lodge. Not that great a place from first impressions. Well we left our stuff and had dinner at the Snow Wolf pizzeria. I had quite a nice Calzone and Bhavni had a pizza. Getting back to the accommodation, I was surprised to see people with doors open, but it became apparent that the reason was to cool the rooms which were way too hot, making sleep really hard.

    Lake Luise
    Lake Luise

    3rd Thursday

    We had breakfast included so after putting the bags in the car we found the food area. The food was continental with a waffle station. I put some bagels in for toasting and bhavni was looking after them, but a old man decided he wanted them, even with Bhavni saying they were hers – cheeky man, made us a bit pissed off. After breakfast we sorted out some food for ourselves for later and meant to check out – I dont think they were interested in my suggestion of opening the windows in the apartments before guests arrive to cool them.

    Walking to the glaciers
    Walking to the glaciers

    Driving to the Lake Luise car park, we arrived around 10am. I had decieded that today we would do the plain of 6 glaciers walk – which was just over 6km. The first bit was from the Fairmont hotel right around the lake, so there were lots of casual walkers around. This ended when we had to cross some water, marking the start of the real walk. It again went up a valley and we had good views as we got higher and higher, with the trees quickly disappearing and rocky paths the norm.

    Near the end
    Near the end

    You could actually do this by horse as there was a specific path for them also. Eventually we got to the Swiss tea house, marked by a sudden appearance of a nice path. We decided to forgo the break for now and continue on the last part of the walk, which got us to the area I had seen in photos – overlooking the the glaciers. The path stopped and became an unofficial scree covered trail, which we followed for a bit, just to get to a nicer lookout position. After a bit of time to take it in, we took the trail back to the tea house, going to the second floor where we got a seat. Ordering tea and coffee, I got tempted by tortilla chips with salsa, which was quite good. It was nice looking out over the forest having the food.

    Chips and dips
    Chips and dips

    After we started the walk back along the trail, eventually we came across the path the Lake Anges, which we were looking out for. Taking it, we were soon climbing again, hugging the mountain. We could see the original path below now and again, then we were over the end of Lake Luise, with views of the Fairmont.

    The Fairmont
    The Fairmont

    Wrongly following signs we descended a bit to see the mirror lake, before realising we had to go up again, quite a bit to the lake, including a set of stairs. The tea house there was really busy with no spaces. I had to order tea inside which took a while as they normally only do table service – infact they did not give milk. After being amused by the “Fresh” Indians who were quite noisy, we headed down, via the mirror lake, which definitely was not a mirror. By the time we got down it was 4.30pm, with ominous clouds appearing. We went to the Fairmont hotel and tried to enquire about reserving a place for dinner. I think they chose to play dumb a bit as we must have looked a mess, so we left.

    Lake
    Lake Anges

    Our next night was at the Paradise Lodge, where we checked in, getting chalet 8. We asked about the dinner, the owner was sceptical about getting a place, but found out that the lounge was turn up and see – plan. We unloaded the bags and Bhavni suggested we visit the Moraine lake. Driving there the heavens opened up, so we got parking close as many were leaving, but we saw the lake in driving blustery rain.

    Chalet
    Chalet

    We headed back and getting caught in a bit of a queue to the town, we went to the shops to get our milk – expensive prices. By now the sun had come out again, so it was nice to get back to the chalet and get ready. We headed out at 7.40 and went to the Glacier lounge where we were put on the wait list and give an electronic buzzer. So we went down to the saloon bar and had a cocktail and beer. Our table was ready in 2 minutes, 2nd table in front of the main window with a great view of the lake. For dinner we had soup, quinoa roulade, a vegan burger and a nice desert. While we had dinner, we watched a storm form, the view disappear and torrential rain, then clear and the mountains and glaciers re-appear.

    View from dinner
    View from dinner

    After dinner and a few pictures outside we headed back to the lodge and phoned kenya.

    4th – Friday

    Falls
    Takakkaw Falls

    Waking up in the chalet, it was nice to find the fire on, keeping the chill out. We had another busy day today, so we had breakfast by the window, got ready and checked out, leaving at 9.30am. Joining the main highway (SH1), we drove through Yoho national park. The first stop was just on the side of the road, which was a small area which displayed information about the loop tunnels that were created to allow trains to go through without going up massive gradients.

    Next was Takakkaw Falls, another massive waterfall – the second highest in Canada and over 250m, which was a few km off the main highway. Getting there, we parked in the car park and walked the path to the falls, which we could see (at least partially) all the time. Crossing the bridge we went to the end of the path taking photos. Here we did every now and then get sprayed with the falls when the wind direction changed.

    Emerald Lake
    Emerald Lake

    Getting back to the car, we were off again, stopping a little down the road to see the falls with the natural bridge. This was where the waterfall had cut under the rock leaving part of it straddling the flow. We saw the falls from a few different lookouts before getting back in the car and driving to the Emerald Lake (a few km off the highway). We had a walk around the area, taking in the view and taking a couple of snaps. The restaurant there seemed to be having a function later the day, so it looked closed. The sights were quite inciting as we read about some of the walks here, to far off glaciers and rugged ranges, especially as we saw a large group of backpackers heading out.

    Center at Glacier National Park
    Center at Glacier National Park

    From Emerald lake we drove back to the highway and started our drive out of the park and back into BC, driving past Golden and into Glacier national park, showing our badges. We drove to the Glacier park visitor centre which was recommended in all the guides for the park. There was a museum type of display showing the animals that are around the area and the human influence such as building of the train line. We also got some hints at places to stop and have a lookout along the road (again there was lots of information about some amazing walks that were around to the glaciers). We stopped at a couple of viewpoints to get views of mountains and glaciers, although one im sure was not really a good view point as trees obscured the view.

    Mountains in Glacier Park
    Mountains in Glacier Park

    Leaving the park, it was only 10km to Mt Revelstoke national Park, where we went for one of the walks that was recommended by the ranger. We parked and showed our badge to the ranger at the walk entrance. The walk was a along boardwalks around an old ceder forest, it was nice and cool, although we had to keep walking to avoid getting bitten. We walked the “wrong way” as recommended by the ranger. Some of the trees were quite big and impressive.

    There be Dragons
    There be Dragons

    Finishing the walk we drove the little way to Revelstoke, parking the car at the I centre and walking to the center – just one block away. We ended up eating lunch in a little cafe. We both had some wraps. Bhavni got tempted and had a shake – bad idea as it was overly sweet. My coffee on the other hand was fine.

    From Revelstoke we started the rest of he long drive to Kelowna, leaving the large mountains behind and getting back into rugged terrain. Leaving the SH1 at Mara lake, the road became single lane with quite a bit of slow moving traffic. As we were driving we spotted a strange store on the side of the road, so we had to ingestive, which required turning around. The store had mostly touristy stuff in it, but it was the dinosaurs, dragons and other creatures that were interesting. I had to get some chilly popcorn as I hate stopping without buying anything. Well that was awful

    Dinner Dish
    Dinner Dish

    In Kelowna, Bhavni guided us to the B&B – the Apple Tree, where we were greeted by our hosts for the next 2 nights, who gave us lots of information on what to do. We freshened up, and chilled for a while before heading out to town. We parked not too far from the center and walked along the main street, going into the restaurant that the guys at the B&B had recommended – RauDz. Well it was very busy so we gave them our name for coming back about and hour later. So we walked to the river front. It had cooled down nicely as the cloud had come in, but it was pleasant. There was live music near the entrance to the city park, but it was not really our music, so we walked a bit taking photos and finally relaxing on a bench just enjoying the view. Soon enough we went back to the restaurant where we were shown to our table. We had some nice dishes – Risotto, holoumi and pasta with a special vegetarian option with quinoa.

    After dinner we went back to the B&B and after a bit of tv we retired for the night.

    5th – Saturday

    On the (wrong side of the) Tracks
    On the (wrong side of the) Tracks

    Breakfast was ready for us at 9am, after we had got up and ready – continental starter course followed by a courgette pie. We were seated outside on the deck in the morning sun with the other couple who had stayed the night.

    After breakfast whilst Bhavni got some packing done, I did some research into activities for the rest of the day and soon enough we were out of the door and in the car. We were off to the Myra Canyon, up about 1000m to get to the kettle train, which involved over 8km of unsealed road. We parked in the car park – here you could hire a bike to do the whole kettle train, but as we were going to do other stuff today we decided to go for a walk. The sun was really out in force, but as we walked our few km, we got a bit of cloud cover which was pleasant. The kettle train tracks, were disused and re-purposed recently for walking and cycling, with the route hugging the canyon, with trestles (bridges) and tunnels. We walked past the first tunnel before turning back and getting back to the car and down back into town.

    Tasting at
    Tasting at Quails Gate

    We drove across the river to West Kelowna – actually a different city with a different mayor, and started on a bit of a wine trail, as this whole valley is very famous for its wines, and it was quite nice as the roads had flags showing the different coloured trails. Our first vineyard – Volcanic Hills – was a winery owned by an indian family, hence they were selling quite a bit of stuff inspired by indian culture also, and we had a talk with one of the sons, who was born in Canada. The problem is that we are spoilt by New Zealand wines so its hard to find anything that beats that for us. After we visited Quails Gate vineyard where we did some more tasting, it was busy but we had fun talking to the person serving us. Finally we went to Mission Hill, which is a lovely vineyard, but it was really really busy, and our idea of having lunch there could not happen. We instead had a try of wine and took some photos.

    At Mission Hill
    At Mission Hill

    After which we drove back to our Kelowna and stopped on the way to get a Subway sandwich, which we took to out B&B and had. We then had about an hour to relax before heading back out,

    Hello Horse
    Hello Horse

    Again we went to the Myra Canyon, but this time up the other side, to the Myra Canyon Ranch, where we were part of a group of 5 plus 2 instructors. I was given a draft horse to ride and after the signing of the usual disclaimers we went for a ride in the forest. My horse would usually open up the gap as he was a draft horse, but as we carried on I stated to get the hang of making him canter a bit to catch up. They took us around some tracks on the mountain, through dense woods, meadows and skeleton forests, with views now and then of Kelowna. We had a bit of rain, but nothing too bad, and it was uneventful apart from once when Bhavni nearly got hit by a horse.

    After the 2 hours, we said bye to the horses and went back to the b&b, where we freshened up, said hello to our hosts, then headed back into town, where we went to the Thai restaurant that we had seen last night – which also had good reviews, where we had a nice meal. After we had a walk, which included getting a scoop of ice cream. Then it was off to the B&B for the night.

    6th – Sunday

    Storms a brewing
    Storms a brewing

    Waking up we had breakfast on the deck again which was continental with some fruit pancake. Some guests from Mexico were staying, who turned out to be doctors, so the conversation was steered in that direction. We finished gathering our stuff and left by 10.30am. We drove back over the bridge to West Kelowna and just near the end of town we stopped at an I centre. The guide suggested doing the more scenic route down the 97 nearer the border, but as it was going to take longer, we decided against it and took the 97c to Merit, which is the newer road, built high on some of the ranges. The weather was mostly nice on the way to Merrit, but from there it gradually got cloudier as we carried on (Bhavni had her usual rest). We drove past Hope, where it was raining with lots of clouds – a pity as we had been told there was a gliding club there. I stopped in Chiliwack, at a little restaurant (Younies) for lunch where I had a sandwich with plenty of cheese and Bhavni had spring rolls.

    On the garden path
    On the garden path

    Rejoining the SH1 we got stuck in traffic for a while until past the Langley junction. Now just for avoiding the toll bridge we went the long way through Surrey and Richmond. However we drove past the VanDousen Botanical gardens. So we turned around and visited, spending a couple of hours there taking a few pictures.

    Sometimes you just have to plead
    Sometimes you just have to plead

    After, we drove to the hotel and checked in – I parked the car across the road at a multistory car park for $6 as the street parking was expensive and I did not want to pay for the hotel parking. We then did a full unpack of all our bags and got ready. We took the car back out and drove to Acorn – the restaurant that Milans cousin recommended. It was not too far by car. When we got there it was totally packed, but we only had to wait 20mins for a table. I had beer battered holoumi, whilst Bhavni had raw courgette pasta. We followed this by a nice shared desert.

    Driving back we filled up petrol and as we did not need the car, returned it to the Avis car park. The instructions to do this leave a bit to be desired – and even putting the keys in the deposit box was hard. It was not just us as others returning the car were confused.

    Just 5 minutes walk back to the hotel and we were soon packing before retiring for our last night.

    7th Monday

    Our last few hours in Canada. We got up and had a few croissants with coffee and tea at a cafe just a few doors down from the hotel, Bhavni got an normal tea, but wanted a ice one – big mistake as it was too sweet. We then had a quick final walk before returning to the hotel and checking out. We took our bags to the central station and took the train to the airport.

    We check in and then after spent a while looking at the shops for some decent Ice wine. Eventually we did buy some. Soon enough it was time to board the flight. Bhavni got some sleep, but as it was a day flight, I ended up watching quite a few movies.

  • Canada 23rd June – 29th June 2024

    Canada 23rd June – 29th June 2024

    Monday 23rd June

    Art in the hotel
    Art in the hotel

    A early start today as we had to get ready for our taxi pickup at 5.45am. We manged to get out the house without much trouble, but we forgot our toasted bagels on the kitchen counter. The traffic was manageable and we arrived at Gatwick south terminal just after 7am, where we unloaded the bags and let the taxi go. We had to proceed to zone 2, which seemed to be in the “basement”. I had checked in online, but almost wished I had not as the queue was really slow, mostly people seeming to be complaining and staff taking their time. Eventually we got to a counter – we had to weigh our hand luggage – all under 5kg no probs, then we had to weigh the bags – 16.x and 18.x. Well I could have taken that extra pair…

    Lions Gate Bridge
    Lions Gate Bridge

    After checking in we went through security and got some breakfast – Cinnamon Swirl for Bhavni and a Croissant for me with coffee and tea before a final boots shop and then boarded the plane. It was a 9.25am flight around 11 hours long. So we got to watch some movies and tried to sleep for a bit.

    We arrived in Vancouver at 11.30am (Monday) . Going to security I was asked what we were intending to do for the next 2 weeks, and I excitedly started reciting our itinerary – quickly being ushered on. Out bags as usual took a while to get out. We made out way out and took the skytrain to downtown – central station, which took just under 20 mins. Funny enough we found ourselves sitting next to the person who was next to us on the plane.

    Hollow Tree
    Hollow Tree

    Getting out we just went into the Pacific Center to see if we could get a Sim, but it turned out that it would be much more expensive then I thought, so we gave up and (after walking round the place), walked down Robson St, in the hot and humid day, around 10 mins to our hotel – The Listel. It was Bhavnis first experience for the way that road signs work in America, and total confusion ensued.

    Checking in we went up to the top floor (6th) and freshened up before going out. We just went up the street and into a cafe/restraunt, where we ordered some Quinoa salad, a burger and yam fries. Bhavni ordered a sangria, amusing as it was quite alcoholic.

    The Waterfront
    The Waterfront

    We then walked to Stanley park, which was quite a bit of a way, turning quite residential before the park. We had a walk around the pavilion and the rose gardens, before catching a tour bus, which took us around the park – though a bit quickly. In retrospect we should have just hired some bikes. We got dropped out of the park near the ferries to Granville Island, so after a look around we made our way back to the hotel and relaxed a bit as it was now after 6pm.

    Olympic Flame
    Olympic Flame

    Bhavni soon enough got restless and we were out again at 7.30 towards the north of downtown, where we went to Vancouver harbour and saw the Olympic flame there, catching a bit of drizzle. Bhavni then was on the search for a 7-11 for some fruit, and after a long while we found one…. Anyway we got back to the hotel around 9.30 and retired for the night.

    Colloseum Like Library
    Colloseum Like Library

    Tuesday 24th June

    It was a sightly restless night, jetlag, but we properly woke up by 6.30am, getting out of the door at 8.15. The day looked like it was going to be a wet day so we  borrowed two umbrellas from the reception. We first walked to Canada Place to see the famous 5 sails of the port building (and taking plenty of pictures), before we walked to the Vancouver public library – famous for its Colosseum design. We were still early so it had not opened yet, so we went to one of the cafes there and ordered a masalla Chai for Bhavni and a London Fog (really over sweet earl grey with milk) for me, whilst connecting to the wifi.

    Dr San Yan Fat Garden
    Dr San Yan Fat Garden

    After about 30 minutes we were on our way again, walking towards China Town. On the way we stopped at a kitchen shop and had a browse. We bought a couple of soup bowls for our travelling and a gift for Milan’s Cousin (who we were going to meet). It was only a small walk to the Dr San Yan Fat Garden, where we bought our entrance tickets. The next tour was due to start at 11am, so we had nearly 20 minutes, so we went to the big art room where there was lots of Tibetan art (for an exhibition) and I tried my hand at calligraphy. Bhavni also tried, but somehow managed to fall of the stool (breaking one of the bowls!). We joined the tour which went around the garden talking about all the different features and significance. We learnt that doing double sided silk panels will make you go blind, my eyes had trouble even seeing the stitching.

    Gas Town Steam Clock
    Gas Town Steam Clock

    After finishing with the gardens we then walked to Gas Town, where we had a look around some of the shops – some quite posh, some tourist traps, before waiting for the going off of the famous steam powered clock. Walking back to downtown around 1pm, we connected with Burrard street and took it all the way to the bridge which went near Vernier Park, then we walked to Graville Island. It was nearly 2pm by now, so we made out way into the market and ordered a mexican wrap from one of the outlets there, before we started to systematically have a look around. I suppose if you really like brik a brak, then the island is good, but it did not have anything that would jeep us there for hours, so we eventually left around 4.40pm, walking over Graville St bridge, then Robson St and back to the hotel.

    Entrance to Graville Island
    Entrance to Graville Island

    Bhavni phoned Milan’s cousin Sunjay, who phoned back with his address. We had a little time so we got ready and left at 7pm catching a taxi to his house, which was quite nice. There we met his wife and his son (who had just finished from Nottingham). We had a home made dinner, before it became a Dr, Dr, Dr and trainee Dr discussion with me slowly falling asleep (waking up just enough to spout things like the importance of the Cocraine review). Sunjay dropped us of at 10pm to our hotel.

    I basically retired for the night, whilst Bhavni spent a bit longer phoning Kenya.

    The Sails
    The Sails

    25th June

    We managed to get a bit of a rest waking up by 8am and leaving the hotel by 9am on a much brighter and sunny day. Our first stop was to the downtown tourist center, where we firstly picked up one day travel cards for us and secondly we booked a show at Graville island in the evening.

    North Shore from the Ferry
    North Shore from the Ferry

    We walked to the ferry terminal (waterfront) where we boarded a ferry to the north shore – a 15 minute journey. We went into Lonsdale Quay Market having a look around the shops there – Bhavni bought some clothes there. We took some photos from around the market, and tried looking around the next streets, but they were just normal high streets so we just went back to the market and got some coffee/tea and some bread as a snack and ate watching the waterfront.

    Center from the North Shore
    Center from the North Shore

    Catching the ferry back (avoiding the usual crazy guy) we then caught the bus to vernier park (very busy with lots of children). We went into the MOV (museum of Vancouver), but that was a big disappointment for us and it was very small. The artwork outside was quite nice though. We then walked to Kits beach to have a look around, most of the children on the bus we caught earlier were here and the place was very busy. We leasurely walked through and then caught another bus to downtown.

    On Kitts Beach
    On Kitts Beach

    Bhavni was in the mood for shopping, as the day was hot we centered around Pacific center. Bhavni got a new pair of trainers. We were getting a bit hungry so we went to the food court and got a pad-thai (okish), before we headed back to the hotel. We had a bit of time and I was still peckish, so whilst Bhavni lazed in the AC room, I just went down the road and got a subway sandwich.

    Around 7pm we went out managing to catch a No 5 bus to the center and then the No 50 to Graville Island. We were e bit early or the show so we had a drink inside waiting for the doors to open. The Imvprov show was really funny, with two teams competing for funny acts. Bhavni tried to say “Made in Chelsea” for a name of a show but it got interpreted as “Maude and Chelsea. Well a few hours of laughter later we headed back to the hotel (catching the 50 and another) before retiring for the night.

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    Sea view on sea to sky highway
    Sea view on sea to sky highway

    26th June

    Today was an reasonable early start and we were awake and checked out by 7.45am. We walked to near the Hornby Street to the Avis check in desk. Not to busy, so we were seen to by the person behind the counter and we ended up with a Hyundi rather than an American car. Down to the 8th floor underground, only one unmarked scratch.

    At the Falls
    At the Falls

    I took my time getting out, new car and left hand drive and drove to the hotel. Bhavni tried to direct… still confused about the street signs so I ended up directing my self. We picked up our bags and then made our way out onto Highway 1A, which went through Stanley park and over the lions gate bridge. Bhavni wanted to try the Marine drive, so after missing it, I managed to get back to it…. well it was not that great as the views were obscured by trees mostly, never mind. We soon enough joined the 99 going along the fiord to Squamish. Our next stop was to see Shannon Falls, the third largest in BC. Quite cool, we also went to the alternate viewpoint, where we tried to take a selfie on the SLR. Bhavni found she could not jump to sit onto the ledge.

    Roadside Views of mountains
    Roadside Views of mountains

    We had to carry on to get to our destination, and as we got further the mountains got more rugged and snow covered. Amazing. Soon we arrived at Nita Lodge in Whistler and checked in. Lovely room. We freshened up and took the free minibus to Whistler village. We were meant to pick up out ticket for the peak to peak gondola from the Zip tours, but annoyingly they gave us a refund and asked us to get the ticket from the main Blackcomb desk. Luckily there was not too much of a queue and we we soon going up. It was amusing when the gondola up entered the Olympic station, I thought we must be there, but a sign showed that we were only a third of the way up. The view out kept on getting better. After a while we emerged onto the top of whistler mountain.

    Top of Whistler
    Top of Whistler

    Having a look around the top, we took the time to take some photos of the scenery, before going about half way up the only open trail on the mountain (to the summit). It was nice walking past snow banks and seeing the frozen scenery. After returning to the lodge at the top, we then boarded the peak to peak gondola, which went over the valley to Blakcombe mountain (we did not wait for the glass bottom gondola as the queue was quite massive).

    Mountain Vistas
    Mountain Vistas

    On the Blackcombe side was a smaller lodge, but it seemed to have more trails there (but closed as well). We got talking to one of the volunteer guides on the top, having a talk about when everything opens and our upcoming trip. After we had a look around we took the peak to peak back to Whistler, where we got our photo on the Olympic stand and had some fries, which were actually pretty good and crispy. We then took the peak to peak for the last time back to Blackcombe and then took the open lift down. Bhavni managed to get a massive head cold, whilst I enjoyed the fresh air. We saw 2 black bears just under us whilst on the lifts down.

    Black Bear
    Black Bear

    It was a bit of a walk to the whistler village from where we came down. Making our way to the information centre we caught the minibus to Nita lodge (with our neighbours), where we had time to freshen up (Bhavni slept). For dinner we went to the Mongoli grill in town catching the bus, where we had a nice stir fry, before going back to the lodge and having a coffee before retiring.

    27th June

    Another early start, we had checked out and loaded the bags into the car (in the parking garage) by 7.45am, after which we asked the front desk for a minibus ride into town. We made our way to Zip Trek and checked in at the desk.  We were really early, so we had to wait at the meeting point for about 20 minutes. We were then met (along with the rest of the group) by the guides.  We were taken to a side and put on our zip line harnesses loosely before getting into a small minibus to go up Whistler mountain, a little higher than the Olympic station.

    We were on the eagle trek which had 5 different zip lines, each quite different. The first one was a duel line, so two could zip at the same time. Bhavni and I (when our turn came) walked with trepidation and let go simultaneously.  I let go of the line, just supported by the cable – amazing, I even managed to not go backwards until nearly the end. Other zip lines went through trees and over rivers. The rain even managed to hold off for the whole of it. The last one was slightly different in that we all went upside down off the zip line, demonstrated by one of our guides (a girl who used to live in London).

    After the zipping and returning the gear, we walked through the town (getting a coffee from starbucks, which I regret as it was very bland and Bhavni managed to get an unhappy worker, who was not happy about the mistake of cream on the coffee). We caught the bus to Nita lodge, and after a brief look at Nita lake, we got in the car and underway to out next destination – Kamloops.

    The Valley to Kamloops
    The Valley to Kamloops

    We travelled north, slowly getting out of the really big mountains with lovely views all the way. There were lots of small towns that we passed and the area slowly became more arid until we joined highway 1, then it started getting slightly greener again. We saw some deer on the side of the road grazing and found some good places to take photos, before arriving in Kamloops and checking into Hampton Inn. The room was fine and we cooled down a bit before Bhavni wanted to go to the shops she could see from the windows. The shops actually required us walking a distance as the main highway ran in the middle. Most of the shops were big furniture shops or similar, but we went into a big bookshop. Apart from Bhavni buying books there, I read a little on the walks in the national parks, so we were there for over an hour.

    Sunset Overlooking Kamloops
    Sunset Overlooking Kamloops

    After getting back to the hotel, we took the car to downtown, where we went to a Mexican restaurant. The veg choice was not that great but ok. I could not decide whether the waitress was not in a great mood or just distant. After we had a walk around the town before heading back to the hotel and calling it a night.

    The closest waterfall
    The closest waterfall

    28th June

    We started the day with breakfast at hotel. The breakfast was continental style, I made a fresh waffle and we gorged ourselves. After I loaded up the car and Bhavni went to checkout at around 10.15. Soon we were on the road going north and east with the scenery slowly getting greener as we were following a valley north. Bhavni again enjoyed becoming a train spotter.

    One of the most beautiful falls in Canada
    One of the most beautiful falls in Canada

    We got to a place called Clear Water, and after seeing the information centre as we went past, we decided to go back to it – could do with a break. It was a small information center, but Bhavni got talking to one of the staff members asking what there was to do on the journey – not that much apart from the views en-route. Then Bhavni noticed some pictures and asked where the waterfall portrayed in it was. Well it turned out that there were some waterfalls within relatively easy reach (the furthest being 48km away) in Wells Grey national park, but to do it all would take probably 2.30h.

    Niagra of BC
    Niagra of BC

    Whilst leaving, we both thought that since the first waterfall is only 10km up the road, we could visit that, and then carry on – thats only an extra 30-40 minutes. So off we set into the state park. We could not really figure out where the actual park gate was, as at the 5km mark there was just a  golf club marked. But soon enough we turned into the parking. It was a short walk to the fall area – we could hear a roar but could not see it. Well it turned out we were above the impressive waterfall, which came out half way up the canyon walls (volcanic and glacier formed). We took some pictures and after looking at each other – decided we just had to do the rest of the waterfalls.

    A bear crossing
    A bear crossing

    We drove to the furthest waterfall next – described at the information center as being one of the most beautiful in Canada. Well they were right, we were nearly at the top of this one and it looked like something out of a fantasy film – a fall in a nearly spherical hollow. After some impressive views, we headed back to the last waterfall – the Niagra of the park, which was quite nice, but not as good as the previous one.

    Tea at swiss bakery
    Tea at swiss bakery

    Getting back on track (after the 2.15h detour and seeing some bears crossing) we carried on to Valemont, passing through some quite heavy showers. We stopped at a swiss bakery which was on the other side of town across the rail tracks. They were nearly closing, so did not have much, but we had some tea and split a muffin. We were in a clear spell so it was nice to admire the scenery.

    From just north we joined highway 16, through Mt Robson park to the Alberta border. The rain and clouds were back so we could not see Mt Robson. At the border we entered Jasper national park and payed the park entry entry fee at the ranger stop

    Cool Mountain
    Cool Mountain

    It was still a while to Jasper but with the scenery we enjoyed the drive. Getting into town (seeing the Rocky Mountaineer train as well), we found the Moose Haven Suite and let our selves in – we were left instructions on how. We unloaded the car. Noticing the time on the clocks and then on our phone we released it was 7pm (1 hour later than BC). So quickly freshening up and reading a little about food we headed out and went to dinner in Cassios. I had the Aglio oli and Bhavni had a Premavera. The waiter was quite talkative (though he did not give us our free bread – found out later).

    Getting back to the suite, we met the owners briefly and planned some of our possible walks for the next few days before retiring for the night.

    Early on the Skyline Walk
    Early on the Skyline Walk

    29th June

    We were up early and had breakfast, before we ventured into town. We walked to the I-Site, but it was still closed, so we went to the supermarket and got a bit of food. Back at the I site, they just opened up after we arrived and we asked about some of the walks. The ranger told basically confirmed what we had thought about the walks and which ones to do. Just that he recommended the Sulpher Skyline today and the Bald Hills tomorrow.

    On the plateau
    On the plateau

    We went to the Bear Claw bakery, which now  had a queue. Getting a olive and something loaf we went back to the apartment and made our selves some sandwiches and packed our lunch with our equipments (gloves for Bhavni) into our ruck sacks. Soon enough we got into our car and were on our way to the Mette hotprings area. On the way (before Japer lake) there were a lot of cars parking on the side of the road, so we also parked and investigated. They were photographing an elk (I think). Getting to the skyline parking, just at the hot springs we got our selves ready and looked at the sign – 700m climb. We started up on the walk up the path which wound through trees for a while, before they started thinning as we got higher. It was quite a cloudy day, but not raining luckily.

    On the Summit
    On the Summit

    About 2 hours later we got to a plateau just before the peak we were trying to get to. We sat down and had a cereal bar before the final push to the top. The final bit was extra steep for the beginning, so plenty of breaks. Getting to the top, it was a bit exposed, but was a nice place to take some photos with amazing views. An old couple (who we had overtaken) came to the top and the guy got a picture of himself doing a hand stand at the top.

    Cloudy With the Skyline River and mountains
    Cloudy With the Skyline River and mountains

    Getting back to the plateau we had our lunch on one of the benches overlooking a nice view, before going back down. It was not very long going back down, and soon we were in the car park.

    Out plan was to go to the hot springs after the walk, annoyingly the queue was quite massive and out the door. I stood in the queue whilst Bhavni returned the items to the car – we had to go just to say we had done it.

    An Elk we think
    An Caribou or Elk we think

    It was a bit of a disappointment as the pools were really crowded, and children were splashing away as well as none of the pools were really really hot, so we left in half and hour and headed back to town. On the way back we saw some wild life; some mountaian goats near rocks, a familly of three deer of some type on the side of the road and back on the main road, with lots of people stopping to take photos a caribou or elk.

    In town, back at the apartment we chilled for a while before going up the road to get the laundry done. Back for some tv before going to a pizza parlour.