14th August Monday
It was an early wake up after the late night sleep at about 3am, to get ready for our 4.30am taxi pickup.
We arrived at Heathrow and even after spotting the rest of the group could not directly join them as we had managed to check in already. So after dropping the bags we went and joined the group.
After security we then went to the lounge (parents went to the posher lounge to us). We managed to feed the children (and ourselves) some food, and were enjoying the lounge so much that we realised that our flight was about to leave, the board at the gate had changed to closing. Anyway Bhavni and I got chided by the lady there, whereas the rest of our group just waltzed through.
On the way out we got my Father to sit near us and Airyen to sit next to the rest of the children, so we had a quiet flight.
Arriving in Porto, immigration was easy (nice security with tired children), we then picked up our bags and made it to the exit. One taxi was there, in which we sent most of the group (apart from Bhavni and I and the parents). Our next transport turned up 40 mins later. Luckily it was an easy journey to the Hilton
Gaia.
At the hotel we dropped of the bags. Anish suggested a restaurant Nhac Nhac, we took a Bolt to there. However the restaurant was closed all day that day.
Next door there was MXM which was open, so rather then messing around all 13 of us sat there – not recommended for large groups or vegetarians – things coming out were glacial and the quinoa burger that Bhavni ordered came with bacon in it and when asking to remake it Bhavni followed to see the cook try to just remove it. But at least the chips were good.
So after the food, we headed back to the hotel in our taxis, where Minuls and Sheilinas rooms were ready but ours were still waiting. Anyway we went to my parents room for a bit of a surprise for them – a suite and bubbles, but a few of the children had knocked out so we saved the bubbles for later.
We all went to our rooms and after a bit of time to refresh, converged on the spa pool – very nice indoor pool and highly heated. The children had a lot of fun.
After the swim and getting ready Parents, Minul and Our family met in the lobby and had a walk on the river front towards the bridge. There seemed to be a good Italian there, but they did not want to give us the time of day. So in the end we went to Pizza Hut near our hotel, where Shelinas lot met us. It was quite a decent meal.
After dinner we all were so exhausted that we all went to our rooms and knocked out.
15th Tuesday
Our fist day here, after the long day yesterday, we woke a little late and headed down for breakfast, getting adjoining tables. Every one came down over time until the whole group had gathered.
Shelina and the family wanted to go see the Palacio da Bolsa, which was also something that we wanted to see, so along with parents we gathered in the lobby and ordered a couple of bolts to go there. When we arrived we met up with Shelina and co on the grassy area outside, and joined the small queue to the palace entrance. It did not take that long luckily and we were in time to enter and join a tour in English. The tour lasted around an hour with lots of explanations of the room and the faux finishes they all contained, with the tour finishing on the oriental room. (Bhavni and I did a little retrace to see a couple of items we had missed after). The queue to the palace was by now a lot longer.
Shelina and my parents wanted to go for a drink at a cafe after, so we said we would join them. Anish had found a place he wanted to go to, so we walked there a few minutes away. It was quite small and busy, so the rest bailed and went to look for something else, whilst we ordered a couple of natas (2 for us and one for Anish). We decided to abandon them and made our way back to the Sao Francisco Church. The gothic church was quite impressive, with lots of decor, statues and guild-work. The ancillary rooms that we could visit were also impressive.
It was just before 1pm when we left and we made our way towards the Clerigos tower. On the way there was a nice viewpoint where we could see the river, bridge and Gaia. As it was getting to lunch time we got to the Jardim da Cordoaria, where we stopped to have a little of the food that we had packed and the nata, and it gave Airyen a chance to play on the playground there.
After we queued at the tower; the next entry was going to be at 3pm. We had around an hour, so we walked to the Porto Cathedral. The map said it was mostly flat – not really! We walked around the outside plaza of the cathedral, with plenty of views across the city- we did not try to go in as there was a big queue for entrance. Bhavni decided to buy some slushies, one for her and one for Airyen – way too sweet for me.
Back at the Clerigos tower we had a short wait before going in. The route took us around a lot of different rooms and views of the church, even with some displays of art (plastic art from waste included), before the main climb up the tower, narrow stairs and waiting for people ensued. Getting to the top, the views were impressive as we were very high up. Though I had to keep lifting Airyen up so he could see over the balustrade.
After leaving we caught a bolt as it was getting to 4pm. Back at the hotel, Airyen and I changed and went to the pool for a while.
Getting ready we converged for drinks (bubbles) and the desert in the parents room just after 6pm with every one.
For dinner we went to an Indian restaurant (Indian Flavours), catching a bolt, for 7.30, where we got a long table, the food was fine.
Then it was back to the hotel and to bed.
16th Wednesday
We had to wake up reasonably early today as we (everyone but shelinas family) had to head to the restaurant before it opened at 7am. The idea was to collect some food boxes that Partia had organised with the hotel for the children, but because there was an opportunity, we decided to eat some food there.
Meeting at reception we ordered bolts to Sao Bento station, where the Living Tours company is. We were 30 mins early, plenty of time to check in – tour number 10.
Most of the other tours got called, until it was our turn, ours was a smaller group so it was a smaller bus. Our family bundled our selves into the front few seats, getting Kiaran and Airyen sitting together.
It was around a 30 minuite drive to our first stop, Amarante. Its a small but picturesque town. We got a bit of a tour around the center over the famous bridge and around the church with its saint to do with marriage. We were left with a little time to explore – Bhavni and I got a couple of pastries (not the rude ones), which were very sweet, but quite nice.
Back on the coach, it was around a 40 minute journey to the Duro Valley (after the tunnel and the bridge from one of the fast and the furious movies), where we got to a nice looking Vineyard. We were ushered into the garden area with a welcome drink before a tour of the barrel room, where they had animatronic people showing the crushing of the grapes. They also had some very old barrels of port (which are only tapped in Easter).
From here we were led to the dining room – a lovely space, where we as a family had a table to our selves. We had unlimited wine with our meal (though I dont think anyone could really take advantage). The soup was quite good, but the main meal was interesting – tofu that had been marinated in port – only I ate it, there was enough desert and port to follow.
After food we had a little more time in the grounds before we boarded the coach once again. We headed to a dock near the river, where we waited to board a boat. It was a bit annoying as a couple of tours were waiting to board and there were 2 boats – a large and a small, as we were last we only could go on the larger boat, where there was only space in the ‘inside’ area, a bit of a green house. (We were meant to be on the smaller boat – but the boat company did not do their job correctly). Everyone sat in the middle seats away from the sun, except for me as I wanted the view. I think the views would have been amazing if you had a good view and were not too hot. The most exciting thing though was the 2 military aircraft the flew over.
Getting back onto the coach, we were then transported to our next destination, another vineyard, another picturesque location. It was quite hot, so we all tried to stay in the shade whilst we were given a talk about the wine. We then were given a few different ports to try.
It was then time to head back, apparently on one of the best roads in the world to drive, but because of the port nearly everyone had a bit of a snooze (so did the children).
Getting back to Porto, we took a bolt back to the hotel, freshened up and then made our way to the food market, where we got some mixed foods (mostly Italian), I had a gorgenzola with cocoa pasta whilst Bhavni had an aribiata and Airyen a simple tomato.
After dinner we had a nice leisurely walk around the waterfront – seeing the interesting shops and nice photo opportunities. I even got a belt from a seller.
It was then back to the hotel, to get Airyen to bed. With everyone resting I went to the bar for a night cap, where I was joined by Anish, Shelina and the children.
17th Thursday
Today was a bit more of a relaxed breakfast. Airyen and I were down first, everyone else joined over the next hour.
Today was a free day, so whilst the others had their plans, we took took the cable car to the top of the bridge from the waterfront (near the hotel) – There was a small queue, but I got the tickets whilst Bhavni and Airyen stayed in line. We ended sharing the gondola with some excited Americans, regardless nice views – though I think the rides a bit pricey.
At the top we walked to the Miradouro da Serra do Pilar viewpoint, near the Mosteiro da Serra, for some really nice views.
After we crossed the top of the Luis bridge (with the passing trams), again really nice views. On the Porto side, we had a walk around, stopping at a few shops (like ALE HOP), eventually making our way to Sao Bento again.
Soon it was time for lunch, so we went to the Floresta cafe by Hungry biker, where we ordered the Veggie Toast (tofu/mushroom/chickpeas etc) and a sweet waffle dish. It was very good.
After we made our way down with the many stairs to the lower section of the bridge, to cross back, another experience. We then made our way back to the hotel.
It was an afternoon of chilling and going to the pool for us.
For dinner we were celebrating Suryas birthday, we took some bolts to Frida Mexican (R. de Adolfo Casais Monteiro 135, 4050-101 Porto). It was an interesting dinner; some shared starters then I had Mole with some cheese, Bhavni had cactus, Airyen decided he did not like the food and had rice.
It was back then to the hotel, where the rest went to sleep, whilst I chilled in the bar for a while.
18th Friday (Porto – Coimbra – Porto)
Today was another trip day, just us and parents. So after the family breakfast, where the others decided that they were going to the beach (in front of Airyen who then wanted to go there), we left Airyen with parents and walked the hilly 20 minutes to pick up our hire car from Guerin Gaia for around 9am.
The guy at the hire place was very helpful, setting up the car play to Bhavni’s phone and properly going over the toll road systems. It was a nice new car with lots of pilot features in built.
We then drove to the Hilton, parked and picked up parents and Airyen. It was then an easy 1h.20 minute drive to Coimbra, where we found parking (near to where I had planned at the Pedonal Pedro Bridge, though on a side street), though there was a busy main road to cross. The bridge is quite famous and is a nice pedestrian bridge with coloured glass sides, good photo opportunity.
It was already quite hot, and we had to walk around 10 minutes more to get to the botanical gardens, so we took the opportunity to stay in the shade for a bit when we got to some of the tree areas.
After a bit of confusion and asking where the entrance of the gardens were, we got in. The gardens climb the steep hill up to the university area, which was a little tough going for the parents. However there were some nice pools and fountains near the top that we spent a little time at.
Soon enough it was time to get a bite to eat. We decided to head to the Pastelaria Universidade cafe. As it was quite hot we sat inside. For food, we got some sandwiches made which were quite moreish. Airyen for some reason did not want to eat much – just desert.
The cafe was right near the Escadas Monumentais, which are a famous stair case to the university. A bit of photo opportunity and then we were in the grounds. As we had time I tried to find the chemistry department as we could go see the lab, but the directions were a little confusing and it turned out (when finally finding someone to ask) that it was in a different direction and closed for lunch.
We got to the main attractions around 1.30, and straight away went to see St Michaels Chapel, with the oversized pipe organ, a nice building. Then we made out way to the Royal Palace, which was a much bigger place, seeing the hall where doctorates are quizzed, and high up on a walkway with a great view.
We had some time before our entry at 14:40 to the Baroque Library, so we tried our luck to enter early but were not allowed to enter. So the rest waited in the pockets of shade there for 20 minutes whilst I wondered around. When we got to enter the library – we were allowed into the basement with no where to go – so all of the other tourists as well as us just looked a bit confused until they opened the door to the lower library. Lots of books were housed here, and we could take photos, but soon enough the doors to the main library were opened, where photos are prohibited. The main library was really impressive – tall with lots of grand features and lots of guilt work. We spent a bit of time wondering around and reading about the place, before leaving.
From here we took the route down the opposite side of the hill, ending up near the santa clara bridge, where we stopped at a cafe for some drinks and refreshments (with parents getting excited about the pigeons that were hanging around nearby).
We then crossed the bridge and headed to the car (about a 15 minute walk). It was then an hour and a bit journey back to Porto, however the group voted for a little shopping trip, so we ended up going the ‘The Forum’ shopping centre here, for a 30/45 min shopping stop. Only father managed to buy some stuff though.
It was a pleasant enough drive back to porto, where we dropped the car off to the garage (simple enough return), then walked. back with everyone to the hotel (some interesting artwork on the way).
Back at the hotel Shelina had organised dinner for her family at an Italian. Father thought that he was going with them, so I started to organize with Minul about dinner, after all that it turned out that father was mistaken, so in the end I managed to book 7 places for us at 7.30, and Shelina altered her reservation.
Il Nostro Sapore, turned out to be a really nice restaurant which we all enjoyed, so much so Minul wrote a great review. Leaving we decided to walk back, which was all downhill, but Arushi had a little fall, so she and a few others ended up getting a car back.
Back at the hotel, it was time for the children to sleep, I went to the bar for a bit again.
19th Saturday (Porto)
Today was the last full day here at Porto with everyone, and the cloudiest day so far. So after a breakfast together, we and our parents headed to Livraria Lello for a 10.30 entry. We had to wait there for a bit before we could go in, and the timed queues were quite big already.
It is quite a pretty book store, but very very busy. We managed to get some good photos on the famous stair case and walk around the whole place. Airyen had to leave a bit early for a bathroom break, with mother.
The tickets to entry said they could be redeemed against a book purchase there, so after finding something that would actually be nice, we then found that each ticket had to be used separately, which made no sense as the books were at full RRP anyway.
From here we walked to the Crystal palace gardens (where the Super Bock arena is), having a walk around. We saw some baby peacocks whilst walking around the gardens.
From there (11.30) we caught a bolt and went to Gaia Shopping Mall, spending a little while there. Again not much bought there, but after we went to the food hall upstairs and had some lunch, Airyen got some pasta salad not surprisingly whilst we all had little bits an pieces such as espresso with a nata for €2.
A little bit after 1pm we headed back to the hotel, where we had a bit of time for a quick swim. After 3 pm we decided go via walking to the wine museum (catching a bit of a shower). It was a really good museum, which explained a lot about wine and all the stuff that went along with it. Airyen was a little bored due to the reading and wanted to rush a bit, but we were still there for 1.5h. At the end was a room where you had to smell aromas, which were applicable to different wines – this was great fun. Finally we had a bit of a tasting session.
Getting back to the hotel, we had a little bit of a swim, then a meet at the bar before it was dinner time (7.30 booked at Spice Art). We took a lot of clothing with us as there was a laundrette near there and put it for a wash before going to the restaurant. After starters were ordered I went back and moved the clothes to the drier, and again went and got the clothes with Bhavni before the main meal. The food was so so here.
We took some bolts back to the hotel and as usual it was my last night at the bar.
20th Sunday (Porto – Ponte De Lima – Soajo)
Our final breakfast together. It was a chilled start of the day and after breakie, we headed to the pool (Bhavni finished packing), were we spent the last bit of the morning, before we had to check out around 12.30.
Saying bye to everyone we caught a bolt to the Guerin at the airport, to collect our car – not quite as nice as the city centre Guerin as it was all automated (with details that needed changing). Soon enough though we got ourselves into our rental car and were on our way to Ponte De Lima, an hour ride away (90km).
We got there and parked at the Areal Parking area right next to the river. It was significantly hotter here, so after some photos with the Roman phalanx statues there we crossed the famous Roman bridge and found a cafe for a food break – chips and salad with a drink.
After the refreshments we went to gardens for the International Garden Festival, spending some time looking at the different areas and even having some time at the playground there.
At around 5.30pm we headed to the Lidl here to pick up some provisions for the next couple of days, with a moaning Airyen.
It was then around an hour drive to Soajo (40km), where we checked into
Casa da Gandarela after phoning the owner for directions to the place. It was
an old house, with the bedrooms at the lower floors, the kitchen and dining upstairs. Whilst I got dinner organised Airyen amused him self with chasing the local cat.
Dinner was tomato and veg pasta, with some salad and some slightly overcooked focaccia. After dinner, it was bed time for Airyen, and to be honest we retired soon enough after.
21st Monday (Parque National Peneda-Gerês)
Today was going to be a tour of the national park. So after breakfast at 7.30ish, we made some sandwiches for lunch (with the bread rolls delivered to the door) and got ready to head out.
Our fist stop was the Tibo lookout point – around 20 minutes drive. It is a nice viewpoint over the town of its namesake, with boards explaining the view. Back on the road, there was another good viewpoint 200m from there with a view of the lake in the valley. Another photo opportunity.
Our next destination was the Alto Lindoso Dam, which was around 20mins away. We got here around 10.30, driving across the dam its self, where we parked. We could walk on the top of the dam – One side with the reservoir and the other with the outlet. The pathway overhangs the dam so looking out on that side made the dam look like it fell away really steeply. Near where we had parked the car was the inauguration monument for the dam – with a fountain.
From the dam our next destination was the Portela do Homem Waterfall, which we had to go to via driving into Spain. It was around a 35 minute drive. There was not much to signify the first border crossing, but we were in Spain. The directions on out sat nav then decided to take us on an more interesting route, through narrow lanes, hills and farms. Soon we got to the border. We parked on the Spanish side of the border and walked past the herd of cows gathered there to the waterfall.
The waterfall was not actually very far on the tree lined route (around a km), but it felt a lot longer with having to convince Airyen. What was surprising was that there were lots and lots of locals going or coming back from the waterfall, nearly all wearing bathing suits; was not expecting that. We got the a bend in the road with a bridge, and this is where the path to the waterfall was. We could see it from a little distance. Airyen decided he wanted to follow the locals by wanting to go wading. We all made our way down to look at the falls, though I took I closer look, then joined Bhavni sitting on some rocks near the bridge, with Airyen trying to wade.
After convincing Airyen that it was time to leave (with him wanting 5 more minutes), getting to our car past the herd of cows. From here we set our again to the town of Geres – roughly 20mins away. When we got to Gares, we drove up and down the main street which was quite busy, but luckily we managed to find a park and pay, as Airyen needed to use the facilities. We had a walk around the main street wondering where to stop; we found ourselves at the end of the main street and ended up having a drink at the Hotel Baltazar; a beer for me, lemonade for Bhavni and apple juice for Airyen – we even managed to have our sandwiches here.
After lunch it was a 20 minute drive to Miradouro da Pedra Bela viewpoint, which had a lovely view of the valley we were just in and the reservoir.
It was then a 10m drive to the Rocus viewpoint. To get to the viewpoint you had to climb up, with it having a lookout platform at the top. Nice place to take some photos allowed us to try to see where the next place, the Arado Waterfall was, and the parking there. The waterfall was around 900m away from Rocus, so we walked along the dusty hot path there, with many locals in their swim wear making their way to or back.
Getting to the bridge near the waterfall, Bhavni and Airyen made their way down the rocky slope, whilst I decided to have a little closer look by climbing the path to the overlook of the waterfall (with a view of the pool at the bottom where there were quite a few swimming). I then joined Bhavni and Airyen near the rocks just a bit further from the bridge. Airyen and I both had our feet in the water.
After quite a while it was time to leave and instead of having everyone walk I left and retrieved the car driving partially back to collect them from the road.
To go back to the accommodation the quickest way was pretty much to retrace our steps, going back into Spain. As we wanted to have Risotto for dinner and we had been unable to find suitable supplies, we decided to stop in Lobios (Spain) buy stock in a shop there – actually found veg stock cubes. Then it was a drive all the way back to Saojo, past the damn.
In Saojo, we found we were early enough in time to go and see the famous grain silos there, up on the rock hill nearby. All different sizes of grain silos.
Then it was back at the apartment for a cooked dinner of mushroom risotto, bread and salad. After putting Airyen to sleep, we all went to bed quite early (though I did a little star gazing).
22nd Tuesday (Soajo – Boulder Vilages – Castelo de Vide)
Today was going to be a big drive day especially as the heat wave was starting to bite. We started with breakfast and then made some sandwiches from the bread that the owners father came to give. While we were getting ready to go, Airyen befriended him and was helping water the plants and see the animals there. After we loaded the car he showed us some plants and picked some fruit there.
Soon enough it was time to leave (9.00 a bit later than planned). We pretty much drove all the way, going past Porto to Belmonte, which was about 3.30h away. We stopped at a fuel station on the way. There was a cafe there, but they had no vegetarian food for a snack.
We got to Belmonte at around 12.30, it is one of the boulder villages/towns and it sat on a hill, with the castle at the top. This is where we found our selves; with parking near by and a very short climb up.
It was quite a nice castle to visit (€2/pp), with a nice outside amphitheatre that Airyen pretended to de a performance on, first, before we went up on the ramparts and up into the tower, which was via a metal staircase as the entry was on the second floor. There was a display of the evolution of the castle and stairs to the next floor up which had historic artefacts in it. Then finally there was a spiral staircase to the roof of the tower where we had a great view of the city.
It was lunch time, so we made our way to a cafe in the town. The dish of the day was fish, so was a little surprised when we said we were vegetarian. However they managed to get some nice chips and salad for us, however also a mushroom and egg dish (which was discussed but I don’t think we ordered). They seemed so pleased by it I ended up eating it. Desert looked nice, but was too much for us.
Our next stop was going to be Manstanto, 1h away, the very famous boulder town. As we drove, we saw a large hilltop and slowly it dawned on us that it was where we were headed. The road lead quite far up the hill to the main town, where we parked. From the guides we were told to expect huge crowds in the summer, but due to the heat, which was in the low 40C range, it was pretty quiet, which was great for seeing the place (as long as you could cope with the heat). We just walked into the tourist information and for the quick visit we were doing the guy suggested we should just go to the castle at the peak.
The castle required a decent walk up quite some steep slopes, but even though the heat was oppressive, the views with big boulders perched around houses (or houses perched round them) and the slight breeze kept us going (we did encounter a couple of really tired looking young tourists – who said it was really hard – must have been unfit or not able to stand the heat). The last bit was the steepest, but it was worth it to get to the castle. The castle was really good to explore for Airyen with walls and ramparts to walk on, and the views at the top were absolutely stunning. There was also plenty of history to absorb.
Leaving the castle we retraced our steps, it was getting close to 5pm. We got back into the town and bought a couple of real fruit ice lollies – the pineapple and mint one was particularly good. Not sure but the locals were not very friendly like some other places, and not even sure if they made up the price !
It was around 5pm when we left, continuing our journey to Parque Natural da Serra. It was around 2.5 hours when we got to Castelo de Vide (stop for supplies). Now our maps gave us directions to our accommodation, but following them was not possible as there were one way signs and some of the roads were quite narrow, with tight turns. At one a man was leaning out of a window, with a amused look – probably having seen this many times.
In the end we stopped on the outer ring road, and made our way to a square where Bhavni phoned the agents. After figuring out where we were, she sent someone to come fetch us; a older gentleman who only spoke Portuguese. However it was quite easy to get him to our car, where he proceeded to show us the directions – really really challenging. The worst was a steep slope up, where you would not have been able to get our of any of the doors (without contortioning). A little bit of slipping the clutch and we were at the Sefardita Guest House, where we were shown around the apartment by a different lady – who only spoke Portuguese, but again not a problem.
Now it was time for dinner; Bhavni and I did a bean curry with rice – tasty but had to coax Airyen to eat. After dinner we walked into to town square – 10 min walk, which was surprisingly lively. After debating a bit, we got a few drinks at the pizza place (though as it was closing were in bottles), and chilled for a bit before going back to the apartment. We all called it a night soon after as at was 11pm.
23rd Wednesday (Parque Natural da Serra de São Mamede)
We had to get up reasonably early again, due to the heat are morning event had been changed to 8am (rather than 8.30), so after breakfast we left to drive to Beira around 7.20.
I had book a cycle tour, on train tracks, (https://www.railbikemarvao.com/en/). There were a few people for the tour, so while the guy was getting the trains ready we had a walk around the old station for this disused train line – quite nice architecture.
Soon enough it was 8 and we were at the trains. Airyen sat with me, on the second train, with the first being Bhavni and the guide. We were then off, I got the slightly short straw, as Airyen initially interested in peddling was soon clever to realise he did not need to. It was a quite lovely cycle as the scenery now and then opened up, and we were shown old buildings and sights, with plenty of stopping. Our first 2 trains stayed together, with the rest strung behind a little. It was sedate enough to take some videos.
It was just over 1 hour later when we got to our furthest point – a high bridge over a stream. We manhandled our first 2 trains off the track, whilst the rest of the trains caught up. They however were just turned on a turntable to the correct way back. We had a bit of time to look out and relax before it was time to head back.
Airyen had had enough of me and wanted to go with the guide! So on the way back it was Bhavni and I following them. As we were just cycling and enjoying, so much so Airyen had his feet up and looked like he was sunbathing, we did not realise that the rest of the group had disappeared until we were almost back – where we had to wait a full 10 minutes for the next lot of people to appear! Back at Beira we had a small drink at the bar there, then headed to the car.
We headed back to Castelo de Vide, parking on the ring road (to avoid the narrow roads, although this caused Airyen to melt down a bit). As it was still early enough we headed to the top of town and into the castle, having a look around with again some great views of the surrounding. Then it was time to head back, where we decided to chill in the apartment during the hottest part of the day, having lunch there and playing a few games.
After 3.30, we headed back out, driving to Marvao. We parked outside the main walls and entered through the main gate, making our way to the castle, its another great castle to walk around and has some lovely views. On the way down, as Airyen was being difficult (and Bhavni had run out was water), I went with him to the car, waiting for Bhavni – it was nearly 6pm.
For dinner I had seen a vegan restaurant with good reviews in Portalegra, which was around 30 mins away. Driving there we stopped at a Dolce for picking up some rations – after confusion finding the entrance. Heading to the restaurant (which I tried to phone and got some confusing Portugese person on the phone), we found the place in a proper residential area, and … it was closed for repairs!
After that disappointment we started to head back to castle de vide, with a unhappy car, we pretty much got to Castelo de Vide, when the plan was updated to go back to Marvao. So driving there we got to the parking outside the walls and made our way inside to the “Natural Bar”, where we ordered some drinks for whilst sitting on the terrace there with a view of the plains as the sun was setting. I was peckish so I ordered some bruchetta , which we all ate some of. Leaving around 9pm we drove back to Castelo do Vide, as it was our last night I drove all the way to the apartment – though I had a few issues and slipped the clutch a couple of times. We had some dinner and had a walk around town before calling it a night.
24th Thursday (Castelo de Vide – Sintra)
Today was another day with a road trip in it. After breakfast and some final packing I started loading up the car. Soon enough it was around 9am and time to set off (saying bye to the people who looked after the house).
The journey to Sintra was just under 3 hours, getting to our accommodation; Pestana Sintra Golf Resort & SPA, where we checked in and got our room (on the ground floor). After sorting our selves out and a quick break, we made our way to the reception and called a Bolt.
The bolt driver was an Indian who spoke to Bhani in Hindi a bit. However as he relied on his Sat Nav without knowing the area that well, he tried to take us to an entrance for the Moorish Castle, which was not the one that you could drive to. So we ended jumping out and walking to the entrance. This entrance was a decent climb up, through a nice forested path with plenty of switchbacks.
Presenting the tickets we got in. There were a few glass mounds showing burial sites here, which interested Airyen a lot. We saw a few structures and the cistern before heading to the ramparts. From here you could see some of the other sites such as the Pena Palace.
We followed the rampart trail – really cool scaling this, right to the highest points, Airyen and I led, Bhavni followed taking photos. From the top there was a different to the entrance where we saw a model of the castle. It was around 2pm when we left the Moorish Castle. We followed the signs to the Pena palace, another nice forested walk.
We got to the entrance and got through the expected queue (which was not that bad as I had bought the tickets in the UK). The usual looking for the bathrooms for Airyen before walking up to the castle – Airyen wanted to take the pay for bus, but we managed to distract him. At the castle we had to wait a little as our entrance time was 3pm, so we had plenty of time to admire the really fairytale look of the castle. We bought a audio guide for the palace (which turned out to not be that useful as the signs had nearly identical information).
Going through the castle, it was a self guided tour going through the different sections and rooms of the castle. Some of the rooms were very simple, whilst the others were decadent (as royalty had lived there) There was lot of history in the palace (relatively modern stuff as the last king had been here).
The tour ended at a balcony area. Airyen was quite tired at this point and we needed a bit of a refresh, but the area was quite busy and there were not many tables. Bhavni managed to find a place to sit, but I had a better idea and led them to the restaurant a level below, which was much quieter. Here we got a few muffins and drinks for us all sitting in comfort.
It was around 4.30 when we left and made our way out of the pena palace and into the ground surrounding it. Our aim was to go to the lakes, so we meandered our way there, taking in the parkland en route. The lakes were quite pretty and had plenty of unexpected mini houses and castles there.
Leaving the park we got the taxi drivers coming up to us and asking whether we wanted a lift (at a little inflated pricing). After not committing to anything we said we were going to have a bit more of a look around and headed to the path down from the mountain. We were joined ny a family (who had taken a photo of us at the lakes) who had 2 children a little older then Airyen. This was great as the walk was a decent decent and the distraction was great for the Boy! The decent was interesting with lots of forest interspersed with interesting building and vantages – well worth the walk.
Getting to the old town, we said bye to the others (who were getting a train back to Lisbon), then we headed to a restaurant – Larmanjet – which was on the second floor of an apartment complex. We sat outside on a “terrace” and had a mixture of dishes including bagel sandwich, pizza, soup and chips, we even had a desert.
After dinner we caught a bolt to the hotel, where we settled ourselves in for the night.
25th Friday (Sintra)
Our second day in Sintra. We headed down reasonably early to breakfast, which was a buffet affair. The food was ok, but was a little limited for us vegetarians.
After breakfast we got ready and were out of the hotel, catching a bolt, where we made our way to the Quinta Da Regaleira, which is another amazing property set in some lavish landscaping. We had bought tickets for getting in only recently, after Bhavni was surprised I had not booked this.
The fist thing we did was head to the Initiation Well, which already had a big queue for it along a few of the switchbacks on the path. If we had come here after seeing something else I cant image how many hours we would have to wait.
After about 40mins we were at the entrance, a small cave entrance, which almost immediately opened up into the famous circular stairwell. Slowly descending with the queue of people, there was lots of photo taking and marvelling at the view. We did get a few pictures without the crowds, but this was hard to do.
At the base of the well, it opened up into some lit cave systems which we could explore, with multiple exits. After thoroughly exploring, we exited the caves and continued to explore the grounds. There were some cool faux castles and ramparts dotted around to climb and see.
At around midday we headed to the main house, which had a much smaller queue to enter. Its another very interesting house, with lots of modern history, with the self guided tour around lots of different rooms.
After finishing the house, we made our way to the exit, where there were the ponds, which were cool with fishes that excited Airyen. From here we headed in to the old town, which was just a short walk. In town we stopped at a cafe for some drinks and a snack, but then quickly moved to a restaurant for a bit more of a meal (including chips).
It was then time to get a bolt back to hotel, where we got ready and headed to the pools for a swim. Airyen was unhappy with the temperature of the outdoor pool, so we had to go to the inner pool.
In the late afternoon/evening, we had decided to head to a coastal area. We had been recommended “Priai des Mecas”, which was much less commercial than the Cescais area. It was not a very long drive and soon we were at the coastal town. We found parking a short distance away at a car park off the coastal road, then we walked along to the beach. The beach is in a sheltered bay with a great expanse of sand before the sea. We found a place to settle down and Airyen was soon playing with the sand and running from the sea. We stayed for quite a while before heading back to the car.
For dinner, we headed just up the road to AMA Pizzeria, which is definitely popular with the locals, with a few other outlets in the outdoor area. We ordered a couple of pizzas (which were pretty good) and a pasta for Airyen and ended up sharing a table with a student Dr from the UK who was on a climbing holiday. As usual we had the tablet out for Airyen, but soon he was joined by a number of other children watching with him.
It was nearly 9pm when we left and headed back to the hotel.
26th Saturday (Sintra – Lisbon)
Today was a little more relaxed pace. In the morning we went for our 8.30 breakfast (again with picking our food carefully). Then after leaving Bhavni to finish packing in peace, we went to the indoor pool for a swim. Bhavni joined us a little later.
We got everything ready, loaded up the car and checked out of the hotel at midday. It was roughly a 30min drive to Lisbon airport, which was not much of an issue, except for filling the car up and getting to a fuel station (and a bit of raised tempers). The next issue was actually returning the car, which involved waiting in a really slow moving queue into a parking garage, so much so we gave the car a little later than 1pm.
After returning the car we called a bolt to get us. First problem was they parked, but a different place to where we were, so it was quite a while of confusion finding out where the driver was. When we found the car, it became apparent the car was way too small for our luggage (mislabelled in bolt). So we had to order another one (he had to cancel his) and telling the driver to not accept. We then got a decent car a little bit later. All this had eaten into our time, as we originally were intending to go to a cafe for a bit before going to our apartment, but now there was no time.
We got dropped to the Principe Real Central Home (google translate was our friend), where we met someone who showed us to the apartment (including the dodgy key). It was defiantly a smaller apartment. After settling down and a little sort out, we had to head out to Piazza del commercio. As it was a little distance we actually ended up catching a tram (which was coincidently tram 28)
We got to the Piazza and met our walking tour. The guide was a little interesting with more stories than sights. However we got to have a intro into the city, seeing quite a few of the main sights, culminating at the top of the Santa Justa lift.
It was past 6pm by now so we headed just a short distance to “Plant Base”, a vegan-ish restaurant. The food was great here with Momos, veg fish and chips, tacos and some nice cocktails.
After dinner we slowly made our way to the apparent, enjoying the window shopping and the great views at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. Getting to the apartment it was a chilled night.
27th Sunday (Lisbon)
After a breakfast of cereal and bread, we leisurely headed out having a quick walk into the botanical gardens entrance, before a slight wonder around towards the Liberdade avenue. We got to one of the nicer squares and saw one of the hop on hop off bus companies. We decided to buy ticket for this; getting the ability to use 3 of the routes; opting for the castle, city and belem routes.
It was a little time to the next bus, so Bhavni explored some shops… I still cant figure whether we missed a bus or not. The bus when we caught it went to Eduardo 7th park, where we got a bit of time till we started again. Just a little time for a walk around to the top for a better view.
The castle route which we were on wound its way through the older neighbourhoods, passing sights like the old monestry, some other churches and schools and then onto the Castelo de S. Jorgeto, where we got out to explore the eclectic shops and sights. Bhavni and Airyen bought some wallets and purses here.
After a bit of exploring we made our way to Organi Chaido for lunch. We had to wait a little while, but not very long as we ate inside rather than on the terrace. The food was nicely presented though not quite as tasty as yesterdays meal.
After lunch we made our way to the water front and walked along the river for a little bit then followed the roads until we came across the famous pink street – plenty of opportunities for photos.
This street was right next to the famous Bica Funicular ride, where we climbed a bit and managed to get some of the famous type shots with the bright yellow trams. After we headed to the Time out Market for a little wonder around (and a snack or 2) as we had a little time.
Directly outside we then caught a hop on hop off bus which went to Belem. This bus we stayed on all the way seeing all the stops and sights on this route from the top deck in the nice (and cooler) sun, though I nearly lost my cap there.
We were pretty much on the last bus of the day which terminated at the Eduardo 7th park. Airyen had a little play on the children’s playground here.
We took some photos with the low sun before calling a a bolt to take us to the Mercado de Campo de Ourique (smaller sibling to the Time out one). Here we got some lovely pasta for Airyen & Bhavni and some Falafel & Hummus as well. After the nice dinner it was a bolt back to our area. We stopped at the top of the road so we could go to Niva, which was a great ice cream place – flavours were amazing. Then off to the apartment for the night.
28th Monday (Lisbon)
After breakfast (tea, toast and cereal), we headed out. Bhavni wanted to do some shopping, so I took Airyen to Jardim da Estrela. It was actually up a decent hill. The park had plenty of slides and climbing frames for him to play on as well as some animals such as turtles and peacocks. After spending a little time there, we made our way to the commercial area where Bhavni was. It was then a little hunt to find some model trams for Airyen (plenty of little shops and a hint of bargaining).
We made our way to the Time Out market and got our selves some lunch there – it was a really busy place and finding seating was a little hard.
It was around 2pm when we caught the hop on hop off bus going to Belem. This time we got off near the Torre de Belem (near the Biplane memorial). The Torre was quote a cool sight to see (was also closed), as the defence of Lisbon from long ago.
We then walked around the harbour to the next sight which was the old lighthouse, not a very large building but interesting red brick design.
A little walk later we got to Padrão dos Descobrimentos (was to commemorate 500 years since Henry the navigator), which was another interesting monument to walk around and take photos of. Right near by was a lovely stone map of the world with dates and routes of exploration ships.
Then it was across the main road (via underpass) to the gardens that were in front of the Jerónimos Monastery. These gardens were really nice to walk through, then photo opportunities outside the monastery – we did not try to go in as our timings may have been tight and we wanted to go see MAAB.
Not far away was Pastéis de Belém, the original place to get the tarts – we bought a few to take home and one to eat (though after we found out they probably were not vegetarian). We stopped at the Garden of Afonso de Albuquerque to have some food and the tart as well as a small rest.
Then it was onto the MAAT, where we got tickets to the Electricity Museum. This turned out to be great (after the too high brow art exhibits there), as the decommissioned station had lost of levers and items for Airyen to move. It also had lots for us adults to read and see. After the control rooms of the plant there were the exhibits that showed power use through the ages and the focuses on renewable with plenty of interactive exhibits. Outside of the electricity museum we got to walk on the top of MAAT (taking in the view) before we went into the MAAT. Here there were a few exhibits we could see, lots to do with environmental themes, so after a walk through, we then found a little food at the restaurant here.
Then it was a 20 minute walk to Homecooking Lisbon, where Bhavni had organised a Pastel de Nata Pastry Class. There ended up being only 4 of us including Airyen for the class (as 4 did not show up). It was great to learn to make these (vegetarian) desserts with our cool teacher and we ended up with a quite a few to take home with us (after eating a few after).
A bolt ride later we were back at the apartment. for bed and packing (and a take away ice cream). A slightly concerning thing was that we had the news on TV and heard there were some problems with British Airspace….. lets see.
29th Tuesday (Lisbon – UK?)
Our last morning here. So after a breakfast, we had a little time before we had to check out, so we went for a last walk to look around before getting back to the apartment – we already new there was going to be issues with the flights, due to the computer failure in the UK, but the advice for our flight was still to head to the airport. So around 11, we got into a bolt and headed.
At the Airport our suspicions were confirmed – there would be a delay and they were not really sure when it would depart, but it was not cancelled.
Now however the story unravels. It was decided that due to the delay we should go to the oceanarium. Suffice to say this was very stressful and the events caused us to miss our flight.
